Zyrr
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Post by Zyrr on Nov 3, 2024 13:54:41 GMT
For the most part, always stick with the layer paint version. The air paints are pre-thinned for airbrushes and are generally a bit too watery for brush painting, unless you're looking to thin them even further for glazing - which you can do with layer paints anyway.
The dry paints are very thick and clumpy and I don't really recommend them over any of their layer or base equivalents, except for maybe Ryza Rust, which is great for a simple rust effect when applied over a patch of Typhus Corrosion.
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Post by drakeypoos on Nov 3, 2024 14:46:17 GMT
Oh gawd. There are Layer, Air and Dry variants of Dawnstone. Similar for other paints. Guessing Layer most versatile? Dry is a crock of marketing shite IMO. Air is for airbrushing. Layer it is. There’s also Mechanicus Standard Grey which is sort of mid way between Eshin and Dawn - basically sprue colour! |
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Post by knighty on Nov 3, 2024 15:01:17 GMT
Hate undercoating with machanicus grey. The amount of missed hits I only spot after I start painting the model is huge!
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Post by drakeypoos on Nov 3, 2024 17:21:38 GMT
Hate undercoating with machanicus grey. The amount of missed hits I only spot after I start painting the model is huge! Haha. I have often wondered. I think they should honestly rename it ‘sprue grey’ for the lolz. |
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Tomo
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Post by Tomo on Nov 3, 2024 18:33:08 GMT
Gah. Next query then. I've spent the last hour or so watching edge highlighting videos. I get the technique required, but how do you guys approach it? How do you know which paint colours are suitable for highlighting your basecoats? Watching tutorial videos on YT, they all have a full collection of paints, so often pick a lighter colour than the base, or a yellow-ish/blue-ish white. Do you guys reach for a collection of paints you find achieve, say, 90% of your highlighting? If so, recs would be good. Or, do you blend your base coat with an off-white to lighten it up and paint? Or... do you approach it entirely differently? My Vespids are quite far along but hoping not to ruin them with inept highlighting  |
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Zyrr
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Post by Zyrr on Nov 3, 2024 18:37:12 GMT
If you're using Citadel paints, grab the official GW Citadel Paint app. It's free, and you can search by colour or model to get a breakdown of the base, shade, layer, first/second highlight paints for each step. Contrast schemes are also covered for most colours.
You can also save all the paints you own so that you know at a glance if you have the paints for any particular recipe.
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Tomo
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Post by Tomo on Nov 3, 2024 18:54:22 GMT
Ohhh thanks. Good shout.
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Post by drakeypoos on Nov 3, 2024 18:55:17 GMT
A big collection of paints helps but sometimes yeah I’ll mix, particularly with something like those Orks where the clothing and webbing is all a mish mash.
What are you going to be painting largely? If it’s marines I have a solid YT recommendation that’ll help.
I personally have a large swathe of blues and reds, those are always useful and I know just from experience how they can step incrementally.
In general it’s about knowing the general themes of the army and having the paints in, but it’s a modelling thing having hundreds of paints, artists will have a handful and mix them. To do that, developing an eye for what is for example a blue green or a yellow green helps with knowing what to mix. It’s always tbh a bit of a pragmatic decision based on what I have around!
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Post by drakeypoos on Nov 3, 2024 19:01:16 GMT
A big collection of paints helps but sometimes yeah I’ll mix, particularly with something like those Orks where the clothing and webbing is all a mish mash. What are you going to be painting largely? If it’s marines I have a solid YT recommendation that’ll help. I personally have a large swathe of blues and reds, those are always useful and I know just from experience how they can step incrementally. In general it’s about knowing the general themes of the army and having the paints in, but it’s a modelling thing having hundreds of paints, artists will have a handful and mix them. To do that, developing an eye for what is for example a blue green or a yellow green helps with knowing what to mix. It’s always tbh a bit of a pragmatic decision based on what I have around! Edit - I’m just going to add a bit to this. Sometimes it can be better to mix your base with a more extreme example of that colour rather than just grabbing a white. In blue for example I’ve got Fenrisian Grey and even Blue Horror (which is almost white but is still a very, very pale blue. In green I have one called Gauss Blaster Green I use in the same way. You can also get results by highlighting reds with dark yellows - stay Light Ochre is brilliant for that. It doesn’t have to be a variant of the base |
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Tomo
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Post by Tomo on Nov 3, 2024 19:04:57 GMT
So right this moment, I'm painting a Vespid helmet in Striking Scorpion green. I've put a shade on and that made it look a lot nicer. But I'd also like to just highlight a couple of edges to make the front and top of the helmet pop. It's quite flat at the moment.
So in this case, it's only going to be one part of one model! Getting in a new pot of paint just for highlighting is a bit excessive. But I'm not sure how to mix a highlight colour with the handful of paints I currently have. I'm going to order a bunch of paints in the coming days anyway (thanks for the tips earlier!) so, any paints for highlighting can go in the basket too.
More broadly – I have lots of guns to paint, so highlights for black/metallics.
In following the Darcy Bono Vespid video, she leaves out highlighting because the contrasts on the Vespids work. But when I come to do the Aquilons, I expect I'll find some tutorials which suggest paints to use for highlighting.
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Tomo
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Post by Tomo on Nov 3, 2024 19:06:43 GMT
Yeah exactly, seen a few YT vids saying use a pale yellow or pale blue mixed with base colour for warm/cool highlights. Wondering if I should get a couple of those.
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Zyrr
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Post by Zyrr on Nov 3, 2024 19:14:06 GMT
In general, you'll definitely make use of the basic highlight colours for green, red and blue and also greys for highlighting black or other very dark colours. You also can't go wrong with a neutral yellow and an ivory either, as both of those can be mixed with a whole number of midtones to give you brighter highlights without buying new paints. If in doubt, experiment with colour mixing and see what works and what doesn't. But let's face it: over time you'll end up with an absolute fuckton of paints, just because  |
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Tomo
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Post by Tomo on Nov 3, 2024 19:34:15 GMT
Colour mixing... I'm still too n00b to be comfortable with it transferring from my palette to the mini. I find it sometimes looks right on the palette and then I rue putting it on the mini. Was thinking earlier about chopping up and saving the empty sprues purely for this kind of testing.
Suggestions for neutral yellow and ivory?
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Post by drakeypoos on Nov 3, 2024 19:44:25 GMT
I’d honestly recommend watching Tabletop Ready on YouTube. Tends to focus mainly on marines but ignore that and think of the colour you are doing! That said, here is a Salamander tutorial. youtu.be/_oMd_WTDGnw?si=yq6v5RztU3N7xLxSHe is a big exponent of the ‘Eavy Metal thing where you do a chunky highlight of a middle colour and then round the edges a finer highlight lighter. On armour and weapons/vehicles this really makes them glow and ties it all together. It’s time consuming but it’s not beyond anyone. Depends on your commitment. Using that same philosophy I’ll do on a Bolter with a black casing a chunky highlight of Eshin Grey and a fine highlight of Dawnstone. If I want to get really funky I’ll go over the corners and high edges with Administratum grey. You can also use something like Dark Reaper as a first highlight on black armour to give it a blue sheen. I used (again) Tabletop Ready’s tutorial on Sisters to learn that which I used on a chaplain. If I was just going to do one highlight (because I don’t do this on tiny bits of infantry models) on black I’d go Dawnstone or Fenrisian Grey if I wanted a bluer sheen (all my Tyranid infantry was done with the latter). Here’s a vid on Striking Scorpions by Duncan Rhodes: youtu.be/CiFXjye9S2k?si=qBv7drUkmXLvi078I’ll shut up now because I’m hogging the thread again sorry. Final edit in response to last question. In Citadel Wraithbone or Ushabti for ivory, Averland Sunset or Tau Light Ochre for a rich yellow, Flash Gitz Yellow for a bright one. Nurgling Green can be a good bright highlight for different tones of green |
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Zyrr
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Post by Zyrr on Nov 3, 2024 19:54:38 GMT
Suggestions for neutral yellow and ivory? Dorn Yellow and Pallid Wych Flesh. |
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Post by drakeypoos on Nov 3, 2024 19:56:16 GMT
Suggestions for neutral yellow and ivory? Dorn Yellow and Pallid Wych Flesh. I wasn’t aware of Dorn Yellow that looks a useful colour. I hate the Witch Flesh lol. |
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Zyrr
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Post by Zyrr on Nov 3, 2024 20:43:19 GMT
Wraithbone would be a good substitute.
Screaming Skull is a bit darker, but you could make it work in a pinch.
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Tomo
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Post by Tomo on Nov 3, 2024 21:15:29 GMT
You got preferred/goto highlights for red, green, blue, and grey as well Zyrr?
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Zyrr
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Post by Zyrr on Nov 3, 2024 23:25:13 GMT
I'll give you a basic colour gradient from darkest to lightest for each:
RED = Khorne Red / Mephiston Red / Evil Sunz Scarlet / Wild Rider Red / Fire Dragon Bright
GREEN = Caliban Green / Warpstone Glow / Moot Green / Gauss Blaster Green
BLUE = Caledor Sky / Teclis Blue / Lothern Blue / Blue Horror
GREY = Mechanicus Standard Grey / Dawnstone / Administratum Grey / Grey Seer
If you want a darker tone overall, start with the darkest colour (e.g. for red use Khorne Red) then layer up with the next colour along (Mephiston), then edge highlight (Evil Sunz) and very final edge highlight (wild Rider) on the very corners or pokey bits etc
For a lighter tone, start with the next one up (so base with Mephiston), layer up (Evil Sunz), first highlight (Wild Rider) final highlight (Fire Dragon Bright) on literally the very edge of things - you really do just want to tap the edges lightly with this colour on your brush as too much might be overpowering.
These are literally the most basic mid-tone ranges of colours which will see you right in a huge number applications, but obviously there are plenty of other variations - the blue range for example has a decent number of Blue/Green and Blue/Grey tones that might suit you better depending on what you're painting or what look you're going for.
As for Shades - Nuln Oil is great for everything if you're trying to go darker (and generally you can just throw it over everything before you layer up), but if not I'd stick to a shade in the colour you're working up just to add some extra depth to the recesses. Remember, you don't necessarily need a shade at all if you're starting from a dark enough base - just leave the recessed areas that darkest colour and work around them if you can.
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Tomo
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Post by Tomo on Nov 4, 2024 0:11:05 GMT
Sweeeeet. Thx.
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Tomo
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Post by Tomo on Nov 4, 2024 0:15:53 GMT
I've just thrown some Vallejo Pumice on one of my mini's bases. Intrigued to see how that dries tomorrow and then onto having a first go at dry brush layering.
Painting has really consumed me since I got Hivestorm. It feels productive and (mostly) calming (aside from the teeeeeny weeeeeny bits). I've barely played a computer game since (!) which is the only real downside. But it's great having a solo hobby that isn't staring at a screen.
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Tomo
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Post by Tomo on Nov 4, 2024 0:16:47 GMT
Cheers for the input too guys, much appreciated. Think I'm getting far enough down the rabbit-hole that Reddit and YT only gets me so far without trawling multiple threads and videos.
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nexus6
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Post by nexus6 on Nov 7, 2024 16:41:01 GMT
A package from Travelling Man is on its way...
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Post by drakeypoos on Nov 7, 2024 16:45:23 GMT
A package from Travelling Man is on its way... Mine’s on its way too. Kinda hoping for a Saturday delivery, as I wanna pop out tomorrow if the weather is fine. Started painting the Aquilons now. Was gonna/supposed to do the scenery first but I…haven’t. It’s something that’s great to have painted I think but it’s not very inspiring is it 🤣. Might make a contract with myself that I paint one building per Killteam done after the Aquilons. |
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Post by Danno on Nov 7, 2024 22:26:34 GMT
A package from Travelling Man is on its way... Ooh what? |
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Post by drakeypoos on Nov 7, 2024 22:31:50 GMT
A package from Travelling Man is on its way... Ooh what? The new starter set for KT unless I’ve remembered wrong. |
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Post by Danno on Nov 7, 2024 22:46:37 GMT
Argh I'm hoping to get those plague marines (plague caster mainly) on a standalone release next year sometime
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nexus6
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Post by nexus6 on Nov 8, 2024 7:57:42 GMT
KT: The Set I Should Have Bought And Not Fucked Around With Hivestorm, as it’s known
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nexus6
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Post by nexus6 on Nov 9, 2024 7:51:54 GMT
Royal Mail says Monday for delivery. Bum.
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Post by drakeypoos on Nov 9, 2024 8:55:30 GMT
Mine is on Royal Mail special and it’s in Manchester so probably expect it today, however I won’t be doing anything with it this weekend anyway beyond having a Quick Look. I don’t know why my phone is capitalising that.
Need to get some painting done today. I’ve fully done the tactical rocks and boots of four Aquilons but have stalled a bit.
Am trying to get to the end of the Church of the Lightning Stone as well but keep coming to bed too late and only being able to manage ten minutes at a time 😂. I also know how it ends thanks to Luetin.
I forgot to mention I finished ‘Mechanicum’ the other week, which took me three or four restarts to get going with. Not a comment on its quality - I seem to have this thing with reading these days where I need to be in the zone for it, and was an absolute bookworm in younger days. I blame phones.
Anyway I thought Mechanicum was bloody excellent, albeit potentially one of those books where you think ‘does this really affect the overall story that much?’ Once I finish Tales of Heresy, only 44 more books to go in the saga!
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