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Post by ForkHandles on Oct 11, 2024 10:19:06 GMT
Just to state the obvious, but the GW plastic glue bottle is bloody annoying. The metal tube always goes to shit.
I still have a lighter from my smoking days, always fun clearing the plastic glue blockages with fire - burn the heretic!
For safety sake, remove the tube from the pot and hold it with snippers while you heat up both ends. If you want to run the risk of exploding hot glue, feel free to ignore my health and safety tips.
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Post by drakeypoos on Oct 11, 2024 11:08:03 GMT
Can confirm gas hob also works for this. You also get a great smell from the fumes and the talking frogs are always entertaining. But sometime removing the tube and forcing it in the other way round works too - the glue is a solvent to itself. This doesn’t work on bigger blockages.
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Post by manfromdelmonte on Oct 11, 2024 11:19:32 GMT
People swear by Tamiya extra thin plastic cement, but I like Umbrol's stuff. For application, either are preferable to Citadel in my book.
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Post by starchildhypocrethes on Oct 11, 2024 11:22:37 GMT
I’ve been a Revell Contacta fanboi ever since those hazy childhood airfix model days.
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Post by Nemesis on Oct 11, 2024 11:31:03 GMT
Wife is going into town today and offered to pick up something from the Warhammer shop as she walks past I asked her to get a pot of Cadian Fleshtone 'for Ork Lips'. I'm not sure the guy that works there is ready for that kind of interaction. Not sure the wife is either to be fair but I'm looking forward to the story. I sent my sister in to get some brushes (in my defence it was my birthday and she asked for ideas) and she still tells the story 15 years later as the most awkward conversation she’s ever had. |
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Post by ForkHandles on Oct 11, 2024 11:31:33 GMT
Yep, Revell Contacta all the way!
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Blue_Mike
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Post by Blue_Mike on Oct 11, 2024 11:35:27 GMT
People swear by Tamiya extra thin plastic cement, but I like Umbrol's stuff. For application, either are preferable to Citadel in my book.
The Tamiya is good stuff, but on every occasion I've used it so far, I've been left with a skullcracker of a headache from the fumes.
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Tomo
Junior Member
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Post by Tomo on Oct 11, 2024 12:11:47 GMT
People swear by Tamiya extra thin plastic cement I got this the other day. It's absolutely wonderous. Can't believe I used to used bottles of Loctite compared to this. You get 40ml and the little applicator brush is perfect for getting in little gaps. Fiver in Hobbycraft as well after a paid a tenner for a bottle on Amazon!! |
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Tomo
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Post by Tomo on Oct 11, 2024 12:13:10 GMT
PS, I've got bottles of both the regular one and quick drying Tamiya. Tried the former so far for scenery. Will prob try quick drying on some minis.
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Post by drakeypoos on Oct 11, 2024 12:20:20 GMT
I like Revell Contacta because it has a big long fuck off needle and has a side that sits flat on the table.
The only draw back with it is that if the needle is pushed too far in, it’s a pliers job to get the cap off to retrieve it.
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nexus6
Junior Member
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Post by nexus6 on Oct 11, 2024 12:45:25 GMT
Definitely Tamiya glue for all modelling.
Only got the extra thin and it’s a pain on the scenery as it’s so chunky. Will need to get a bottle of the ordinary stuff.
Top tip - the brush extends once the bottle is running out so you can reach the bottom. Just give it a tug
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knighty
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Post by knighty on Oct 11, 2024 12:54:20 GMT
The brush right?
I need better glue. Keep forgetting to add it to orders when I rush-place the 10am Saturday ones.
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Post by drakeypoos on Oct 11, 2024 13:51:47 GMT
The brush right? I need better glue. Keep forgetting to add it to orders when I rush-place the 10am Saturday ones. None of that 😂😜 |
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Post by drakeypoos on Oct 11, 2024 13:54:26 GMT
There’s twenty minutes gone.  |
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nexus6
Junior Member
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Post by nexus6 on Oct 11, 2024 13:58:58 GMT
This is a filthy thread
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Tomo
Junior Member
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Post by Tomo on Oct 11, 2024 18:34:56 GMT
I glued together my Stingwings today! 4 hours in total. One of them took me thirty mins as I could not get the fking legs to line up with the base. But once I was into the groove of doing two simultaneously whilst the glue dried on the other, I was flying.
Hopefully prime tmrw once spray cans arrive...
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Tomo
Junior Member
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Post by Tomo on Oct 11, 2024 18:35:55 GMT
I used Tamiya on my scenery btw. Worked fine for me. Not a huge amount of contact points tbh.
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Post by starchildhypocrethes on Oct 11, 2024 19:42:18 GMT
I glued together my Stingwings today! 4 hours in total. One of them took me thirty mins as I could not get the fking legs to line up with the base. But once I was into the groove of doing two simultaneously whilst the glue dried on the other, I was flying. Hopefully prime tmrw once spray cans arrive... Haha! I ended up grabbing a copy of this earlier in the week and those Stingwing leg joints were all a right twat! |
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nexus6
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Post by nexus6 on Oct 11, 2024 20:22:09 GMT
I used Tamiya on my scenery btw. Worked fine for me. Not a huge amount of contact points tbh. I’ve got it working ok with the extra thin but it’s a bit of a faff having to go back and forth with the brush to load a joint up. I would like the comfort of the standard stuff to get a guaranteed weld with less effort. |
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Post by drakeypoos on Oct 12, 2024 8:10:23 GMT
Has anybody had any thoughts, or any prior experience with other terrain from other games/past editions, about safely transporting this Hivestorm scenery?
I’ll be intending to magnetize the bases of all of my teams but the bases have recesses there. These are flat. I suspect it would be tricky to precisely drill the thickness of a magnet into the bottom. Or does it not matter if magnets are recessed?
I did have a thought that if I used a magnetic sheet in a box that maybe actually just screws screwed into the bases might work but that could carry the risks of splitting the plastic. I also don’t know how hollow the walls and stuff are to and if they would even have enough density to take a screw.
I also wish to varnish these with gloss first before a matte coat. The only gloss I currently have is ‘ard coat and that isn’t covering all this stuff. So any suggestions on this would be great too. It must be something that will dull down with a matte application afterwards.
I also don’t know if matte has an ‘e’ lol.
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nexus6
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Posts: 2,527
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Post by nexus6 on Oct 12, 2024 9:11:28 GMT
Has anybody had any thoughts, or any prior experience with other terrain from other games/past editions, about safely transporting this Hivestorm scenery? I’ll be intending to magnetize the bases of all of my teams but the bases have recesses there. These are flat. I suspect it would be tricky to precisely drill the thickness of a magnet into the bottom. Or does it not matter if magnets are recessed? I did have a thought that if I used a magnetic sheet in a box that maybe actually just screws screwed into the bases might work but that could carry the risks of splitting the plastic. I also don’t know how hollow the walls and stuff are to and if they would even have enough density to take a screw. I also wish to varnish these with gloss first before a matte coat. The only gloss I currently have is ‘ard coat and that isn’t covering all this stuff. So any suggestions on this would be great too. It must be something that will dull down with a matte application afterwards. I also don’t know if matte has an ‘e’ lol. The walls won’t be hollow so you can drill in no problem. I haven’t magnetised any plastic models, but I have magnetised some 18mm plywood for an architectural model I made. It was pretty cool, you could slide different designs on to the side of a site model. The magnets grabbed like a motherfucker too. I put them in with a power drill so not much finesse. They weren’t flush, or level but they still performed very well. Just work up the drill bit sizes in the walls - I’m sure you know the score on that front. |
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Post by ForkHandles on Oct 12, 2024 14:15:07 GMT
Having transported a ton of scenery across London on the underground over the last 5 years, and also more recently by car, I swear by wrapping scenery up in bubble wrap and putting it in a sturdy canvas holdall or even a bag for life - but that is me, a known cheapskate and definitely not someone who opts for fancy solutions when cheaper and mostly safe ones will do! See also reusing margarine tubs and takeaway containers lined with bubble wrap and old foam squares from blister packs!
I do have a decent carry case with foam insets for my figures though, I'm not a complete monster.
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Post by ForkHandles on Oct 12, 2024 14:19:23 GMT
I also wish to varnish these with gloss first before a matte coat. The only gloss I currently have is ‘ard coat and that isn’t covering all this stuff. So any suggestions on this would be great too. It must be something that will dull down with a matte application afterwards. Vallejo do 200ml gloss varnish which you can get for under a tenner. It's brush on, but given the weather, it's easier than waiting for a dry spell to spray a varnish on. I've used their matt(e) 200ml brush on varnish for ages and it's good stuff. |
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Post by drakeypoos on Oct 12, 2024 20:19:10 GMT
Cheers all. Some thinking to do here but I need to paint them all yet. Hoped to have one finished today but for the sake of my relationship it’s TV time lol. Will likely finish it tomorrow though - basing in all the trim to get the box art look is soul sucking work. Think I’ll have to modify my painting goals this week. Christ I wish I didn’t have to spend 8 hours a day tethered to a laptop.
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Post by drakeypoos on Oct 13, 2024 16:38:30 GMT
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zagibu
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Post by zagibu on Oct 13, 2024 19:17:54 GMT
It looks a bit too pristine for a ruin, but otherwise it's stellar.
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Post by Danno on Oct 13, 2024 19:32:46 GMT
They're good models, I ended up with two sets from Imperium. Yet to paint them myself but that might be a good excuse to try out the airbrush once I'm up and running again
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nexus6
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Post by nexus6 on Oct 13, 2024 20:02:24 GMT
It looks a bit too pristine for a ruin, but otherwise it's stellar. Absolutely agree. Great paint job, but a funk wash and or some pigment weathering would take it to the next level. |
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Post by drakeypoos on Oct 13, 2024 20:46:33 GMT
www.warhammer.com/en-GB/shop/kill-team-hivestorm-2024-eng-free-giftI’ve generally tried to replicate the look of the current promotional pictures here, which is very bright. I actually think mine is dirtier, but they have these orange/brown rust streaks here and there I could try to replicate. Close up pictures at photo 10. However this would have to be with existing materials as I can’t be spending any more money on this hobby at the moment, I’m skint and already probably needing varnish. I think the best I could probably do is something like a very targeted drybrush of Skrag Brown. I’m not averse to that, but I am also not bothered by overly ‘grimdark’ schemes or seeking photorealism - personal taste is that I prefer a gentle pop.
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zagibu
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Post by zagibu on Oct 13, 2024 20:54:46 GMT
Yeah, it's certainly fine as it is, it just looks weird in my mind, because the structural damage is excessive, but the transition area to undamaged structure is very thin. It almost looks like cut away with a laser or something, but even for that it doesn't have enough "burn marks" around the damaged parts.
Same problem with the official pictures, by the way. It just doesn't look like real war damage.
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