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Post by magicpanda on Oct 6, 2024 22:54:36 GMT
Number 6 and 3 MegaNobz! What a chilled day, everyone needs Meganobz in their lives.
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Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
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Post by Deleted on Oct 7, 2024 8:26:23 GMT
@blue_Mike
It is really good but I’m just not that into the idea of branching out into yet another stream of models tbh. I’ve already got more to work through than is reasonable!
I’m gonna have a bit of a lay off in here too for a couple of weeks (we’ll see how that lasts) and I’ll return when I’ve got more than a model at a time done. Think I’ve been hogging the thread a bit tbh. I’ll be watching though 🙂
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Post by magicpanda on Oct 7, 2024 10:44:41 GMT
Is stripping minis of paint with Isopropyl a worthwhile endeavour or is it messy as shit and a load of hassle?
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zagibu
Junior Member
Posts: 1,953
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Post by zagibu on Oct 7, 2024 11:13:02 GMT
Works well.
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Post by Danno on Oct 7, 2024 16:29:50 GMT
Is stripping minis of paint with Isopropyl a worthwhile endeavour or is it messy as shit and a load of hassle? Iso is the best option. Bit messy when you have to brush out the details but do that in a box with a rinse pot nearby and it's fine. Dettol, Flash etc leaves a stink afterwards and does half a job anyway. Should go without saying but a pot of Iso is a massive, massive fire hazard, so take appropriate steps/be more careful than usual
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Post by magicpanda on Oct 7, 2024 17:21:33 GMT
Is stripping minis of paint with Isopropyl a worthwhile endeavour or is it messy as shit and a load of hassle? Iso is the best option. Bit messy when you have to brush out the details but do that in a box with a rinse pot nearby and it's fine. Dettol, Flash etc leaves a stink afterwards and does half a job anyway. Should go without saying but a pot of Iso is a massive, massive fire hazard, so take appropriate steps/be more careful than usual Thanks, I gave it a go over the afternoon with one I painted too thick on the the face (matron), seems to have kept the primer which is really handy! I'll be honest the fire hazard hadn't really occurred to me to the extent it should have as I've been using 99% iso for years to clean stuff. Just going over how many times I've been close to becoming a crispy testicle head, it's quite scary Got the Meganobz primed in white and will be giving contrast paints a go when they arrive. Saw a vid using Plague bearer contrast with Biel tan shade over the top and its exactly what I've been looking for in Ork skin and the Blood Angel contrast is looking good for the Armor.
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zagibu
Junior Member
Posts: 1,953
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Post by zagibu on Oct 7, 2024 20:20:27 GMT
The really dangerous thing about isopropyl and other high volume percent alcohols is spillage combined with heat sources. Because it's so light a fluid, you usually underestimate the spillage, and then when it ignites, suddenly there is fire everywhere.
Also when you ignite a container by accident it's hard to not panic and throw it away, which increases the problem tenfold.
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Post by manfromdelmonte on Oct 7, 2024 20:44:10 GMT
Iso is the best option. Bit messy when you have to brush out the details but do that in a box with a rinse pot nearby and it's fine. Dettol, Flash etc leaves a stink afterwards and does half a job anyway. Should go without saying but a pot of Iso is a massive, massive fire hazard, so take appropriate steps/be more careful than usual Thanks, I gave it a go over the afternoon with one I painted too thick on the the face (matron), seems to have kept the primer which is really handy! I'll be honest the fire hazard hadn't really occurred to me to the extent it should have as I've been using 99% iso for years to clean stuff. Just going over how many times I've been close to becoming a crispy testicle head, it's quite scary Got the Meganobz primed in white and will be giving contrast paints a go when they arrive. Saw a vid using Plague bearer contrast with Biel tan shade over the top and its exactly what I've been looking for in Ork skin and the Blood Angel contrast is looking good for the Armor. For me, contrast paints fail over a white prime. The shadows end up too saturated and the highlights not saturated enough. Slapchop takes care of the shadows. But my preferred method is shading the recesses then picking out highlights before applying contrast and letting the contrast paint take care of smoothing any harsh transitions. Your mileage may vary, but contrast can take some experimenting to get the best results.
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Post by LegendaryApe on Oct 7, 2024 20:58:54 GMT
Come back soon, Drakey
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Post by magicpanda on Oct 7, 2024 21:23:41 GMT
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Post by Danno on Oct 7, 2024 21:43:23 GMT
Hey what, where's @drakesmoke? What happened?
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Derblington
Junior Member
Did you know I have a girlfriend
Posts: 2,133
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Post by Derblington on Oct 7, 2024 21:57:57 GMT
I always find it odd that Golden Demon doesn’t feature a single representation of “grimdark”. The vast majority of the community painting doesn’t. It’s all shiny armour plates and edge highlights. Best you can hope for is a bit of dust on the boots.
I guess the primaris vs chaos is as close as it gets.
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zagibu
Junior Member
Posts: 1,953
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Post by zagibu on Oct 7, 2024 22:21:14 GMT
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Post by Danno on Oct 7, 2024 22:30:23 GMT
I always find it odd that Golden Demon doesn’t feature a single representation of “grimdark”. The vast majority of the community painting doesn’t. It’s all shiny armour plates and edge highlights. Best you can hope for is a bit of dust on the boots. I guess the primaris vs chaos is as close as it gets. Yeah agreed, it's been a while since something grimy got an award outside Necromunda
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Post by magicpanda on Oct 8, 2024 10:08:24 GMT
Thanks, I gave it a go over the afternoon with one I painted too thick on the the face (matron), seems to have kept the primer which is really handy! I'll be honest the fire hazard hadn't really occurred to me to the extent it should have as I've been using 99% iso for years to clean stuff. Just going over how many times I've been close to becoming a crispy testicle head, it's quite scary Got the Meganobz primed in white and will be giving contrast paints a go when they arrive. Saw a vid using Plague bearer contrast with Biel tan shade over the top and its exactly what I've been looking for in Ork skin and the Blood Angel contrast is looking good for the Armor. For me, contrast paints fail over a white prime. The shadows end up too saturated and the highlights not saturated enough. Slapchop takes care of the shadows. But my preferred method is shading the recesses then picking out highlights before applying contrast and letting the contrast paint take care of smoothing any harsh transitions. Your mileage may vary, but contrast can take some experimenting to get the best results. Thanks, I've got an Ork boy to test on before I wreck the meganobz but just realised I ideally need some medium. Any idea if this will this work with citadel contrasts instead of being ripped off for citadel technical medium (glaze wording is making me unsure) I'd get more and I can have tomorrow via Prime www.amazon.co.uk/Vallejo-Model-Color-Medium-Bottle/dp/B004R8D5JY/
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Post by ForkHandles on Oct 8, 2024 10:54:29 GMT
HI - I'm no expert but I have read that the mediums work best for their own brands. Also, a bit of water can do similar (although medium is definitely better).
Wayland Games have a £20 free delivery limit, so buying a few paints and what have you gets to £20 quite quickly, and their delivery times are pretty decent.
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Post by manfromdelmonte on Oct 8, 2024 11:13:00 GMT
I've only used Citadel Contrast Medium with contrast and Army Painter speed paints. The only other medium I've used is Vallejo glaze medium, but never with contrast style paints.
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Blue_Mike
Full Member
Meet Hanako At Embers
Posts: 5,376
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Post by Blue_Mike on Oct 8, 2024 11:23:45 GMT
If it was me, I'd follow this guide to painting Orks and leave it at stage 3 rather than proceeding to stage 5 as far as the colour goes, but that's just my preference for brighter green:
There's also this one, where they've managed to get a really, really bright green over a black prime:
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Post by magicpanda on Oct 8, 2024 16:17:30 GMT
Thanks, I gave it a go over the afternoon with one I painted too thick on the the face (matron), seems to have kept the primer which is really handy! I'll be honest the fire hazard hadn't really occurred to me to the extent it should have as I've been using 99% iso for years to clean stuff. Just going over how many times I've been close to becoming a crispy testicle head, it's quite scary Got the Meganobz primed in white and will be giving contrast paints a go when they arrive. Saw a vid using Plague bearer contrast with Biel tan shade over the top and its exactly what I've been looking for in Ork skin and the Blood Angel contrast is looking good for the Armor. For me, contrast paints fail over a white prime. The shadows end up too saturated and the highlights not saturated enough. Slapchop takes care of the shadows. But my preferred method is shading the recesses then picking out highlights before applying contrast and letting the contrast paint take care of smoothing any harsh transitions. Your mileage may vary, but contrast can take some experimenting to get the best results. Oof yeah its a different way of working and very unforgiving of mistakes. Jury is out, primer/undercoat needs to be flawless.
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Post by drakeypoos on Oct 10, 2024 13:03:47 GMT
There’s as many ways to paint Ork flesh as there are Orks I suspect. I favour the bright almost yellow green sort of ‘Warcraft Orc’ look and the recipe I’ve used is Orruk Flesh, washed with Biel Tan Green, then larger realised areas (like muscles or anywhere flat) brought back a bit with the original colour.
I’m then picking out occasional edges and smaller raised areas like knuckles, sinews, facial details with a paler green, which I’ve forgotten the colour of but I nicked from Duncan.
Finally I’m just using a bit of glazed Cadian Fleshtone on lips, brows, noses, and ears. Oh and veins and any really tight looking ‘ropey’ muscle.
It sounds complicated and a lot of steps but it’s really not that bad. I’d also heartily recommend a small hairdryer for this stuff as there’s no waiting for drying then.
There is/was nothing wrong with your original recipe Panda and you’ve also picked up on the flesh bit, but you have to be happy with them.
If I was using contrast I’d probably go for wraithbone spray as it is naturally warm. I’d also experiment with using more than one thinned layer of contrast rather than straight from the pot. I find the main advantage of contrast isn’t actually the sometimes exaggerated shading and highlighting properties, but the speed of coverage.
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Post by ForkHandles on Oct 10, 2024 13:27:33 GMT
I like a good zenithal/contrast/dry brush myself, but on the diddy stuff I'm just doing contrast over a Green Stuff World light grey brush-on primer and it works well enough for bashing out batches of troops. I know you lot are going for a more refined look than I go for, but quantity has a quality all of its own and all that! Speaking of quantity, I've just had some 3d printed 13.5mm stuff turn up from The Plastic Soldier Company to add some variety to the Warlord stuff, I'll post up some pics of them (not painted but interesting all the same*). Oh, and welcome back Drakey! This thread was in danger of slipping off the 1st page!
*May not be interesting at all.
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Post by ForkHandles on Oct 10, 2024 13:35:56 GMT
I have to snip them off the sprues and glue on the shields, so a bit more faff, but they seem pretty good size wise. I'll show them off when they're painted and based.
(Picture shows them compared to the Warlord ones in case it wasn't obvious).
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Post by drakeypoos on Oct 10, 2024 16:07:41 GMT
I started my Volkus terrain last night, and am pivoting… So this is Chaos Black spray, and then heavy drybrushing of Eshin, Dawnstone and Celestra grey. It looks…OK here. If very drybrushed. Here less so. I’ve had great success with building up drybrushing in this way on tactical rock type bases but I think the surface area, and more importantly the fact that a lot of what needs covering is so recessed, means this isn’t going to get a coverage that satisfies me. I’ve resprayed in Grey Seer and am going to take a different approach, probably more closely allligned to the current GW tutorial. Need to hit the city centre tomorrow to get some supplies on my day off. Including something to spread texture paint for my bases (I’m not flocking Kill Team). Any suggestions on tools before I buy the silly inflated GW one welcome.
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Post by ForkHandles on Oct 10, 2024 16:28:48 GMT
Go to Costas / Pret and pick up as many drink stirrers as you can fit in your pocket!
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Post by ForkHandles on Oct 10, 2024 16:30:37 GMT
Oh, and those buildings look good - just need some details picked out / highlighted in contrasting colours and they'll be grand.
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Post by drakeypoos on Oct 10, 2024 16:47:09 GMT
Oh, and those buildings look good - just need some details picked out / highlighted in contrasting colours and they'll be grand. Thanks, but they are too much effort for this layered drybrushing thing. That’s two sides of one building BTW, and it took a couple of hours.
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Post by drakeypoos on Oct 10, 2024 16:48:05 GMT
Go to Costas / Pret and pick up as many drink stirrers as you can fit in your pocket! I’ll probably end up buying the thing. I don’t think it would surprise anybody to know I’m a bit of a full kit w*nker. I even recently bought my second official Citadel water holder 😂
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Tomo
Junior Member
Posts: 3,495
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Post by Tomo on Oct 10, 2024 16:53:12 GMT
Oh, and those buildings look good - just need some details picked out / highlighted in contrasting colours and they'll be grand. Aye. What's your process drakey for doing those buildings? I glued mine together two nights ago and I've spent too much time today reading about painting models, but I've no idea for scenery yet.
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Tomo
Junior Member
Posts: 3,495
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Post by Tomo on Oct 10, 2024 16:54:05 GMT
(PS: welcome back after the account nuke and all that haha)
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Post by ForkHandles on Oct 10, 2024 17:01:49 GMT
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