mcmonkeyplc
Junior Member
General Martok Qapla!
Posts: 3,082
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Post by mcmonkeyplc on Feb 9, 2022 9:30:52 GMT
Thank you We've just had our double glazing and it seems to have some difference. The hallway, where our Nest thermostat lives is getting up to temperature much faster. Conversely our living room isn't getting as warm, that might be due to the bi-fold doors we now have fitted but I'm almost certain it's because of the gigantic cavity underneath the floor. We really want to get the floor insulated but it would involve ripping up the existing floor and replacing which would cost a shitload.
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Post by technoish on Feb 9, 2022 10:47:51 GMT
Thank you We've just had our double glazing and it seems to have some difference. The hallway, where our Nest thermostat lives is getting up to temperature much faster. Conversely our living room isn't getting as warm, that might be due to the bi-fold doors we now have fitted but I'm almost certain it's because of the gigantic cavity underneath the floor. We really want to get the floor insulated but it would involve ripping up the existing floor and replacing which would cost a shitload. Can also be balancing and appropriate size of your radiators. Yeah the floor thing is probably something to do when you do the floor anyway. They can do stuff with robots I understand, so might be possible to do corner or something.
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dmukgr
Junior Member
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Post by dmukgr on Feb 9, 2022 14:05:35 GMT
The place I have moved into has unbelievably thick carpet in the living room which is lovely and warm but I am really tempted to rip it up and do bare floorboards. Any ideas on how much it would cost to get someone to do it, including insulation underneath? I guess they would need cleaning up a bit and staining etc.
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Post by technoish on Feb 9, 2022 14:33:00 GMT
I paid £4885.92 for all the original pine wooden floors in our house to be sanded and oil applied, including fixing broken ones and supply of reclaimed boards to replace them.
The double lounge was £900.25 to sand - invoice says 36 sq m. We paid £691.60 for all the staining with osmo products, about 100 square meters (£7 per sq m). (Add VAT).
This was done a bit as a rush job but I think the pricing was competitive.
Edit: also included £225 for removing a concrete fire hearth in one of the rooms.
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dogbot
Full Member
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Post by dogbot on Feb 9, 2022 14:38:55 GMT
I paid about £2k to restore the original floorboards in the downstairs of a 1930s 3 bed semi. Three rooms and a hallway, including filling some gaps and repairing some boards.
That was stain, not oil, though - I believe the latter is substantially more expensive.
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Post by technoish on Feb 9, 2022 14:47:21 GMT
Yeah to add - the £900 included a clear lacquer or oil (the difference here is really preference - oil is more natural, and while the finish won't last as long, you can reapply the oil quite simply every couple years with a rag, with lacquer you need to redo the sanding.
The extra cost was for colouring (we did Osmo cognac for a dark look in the upstairs, and Osmo white for a skandi whitewashed look in living / dining room - wish we had done that everywhere perhaps, it looks fantastic, considering the state of the original pine boards).
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Post by Dougs on Feb 9, 2022 15:16:15 GMT
I sanded the living room floor of our old cottage and then treated it myself. Cost about £100 in tool hire and £35 in what was probably stain, as opposed to oil/laquer. Took 3 days and was a pig of a job, but came up nicely. Would do it again but not if living in the property.
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Post by technoish on Feb 9, 2022 15:19:14 GMT
Yeah I think one room is totally doable if the boards are in good condition, just need the sanding equipment.
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dmukgr
Junior Member
Posts: 1,517
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Post by dmukgr on Feb 9, 2022 15:38:08 GMT
Thanks for the replies guys. Ideally I would have done it before moving in but that wasn't really possible so it will be a pig of a job just removing furniture back out etc. without doing it myself. Besides, I'm useless at DIY.
Forgot to ask - to get this work done is it a decorator or something more specialist?
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dogbot
Full Member
Posts: 8,738
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Post by dogbot on Feb 9, 2022 15:40:11 GMT
Yeah to add - the £900 included a clear lacquer or oil (the difference here is really preference - oil is more natural, and while the finish won't last as long, you can reapply the oil quite simply every couple years with a rag, with lacquer you need to redo the sanding. The extra cost was for colouring (we did Osmo cognac for a dark look in the upstairs, and Osmo white for a skandi whitewashed look in living / dining room - wish we had done that everywhere perhaps, it looks fantastic, considering the state of the original pine boards). In fairness, it also sounds like you did more of a bigger house, so the pricing is probably bang on, tbh.
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deebs
New Member
So I was killing this pig with a hammer
Posts: 788
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Post by deebs on Feb 9, 2022 16:09:29 GMT
Jesus reading this thread I'm glad I fucked off. I'm living in a large 2-bedroom downtown apartment that comes to a princely 450 quid a month, bills aren't shit and we have more money than we know what to do with, eat out every day due to the abundance of pretty decent restaurants within walking distance and considering buying a McMansion up the street on the lake for an unfathomable 100k.
Brexit did a number on you.
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Post by technoish on Feb 9, 2022 17:32:56 GMT
Thanks for the replies guys. Ideally I would have done it before moving in but that wasn't really possible so it will be a pig of a job just removing furniture back out etc. without doing it myself. Besides, I'm useless at DIY. Forgot to ask - to get this work done is it a decorator or something more specialist? Floor sanding specialist. For the insulation question you are looking at more of a builder I think.
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Post by technoish on Feb 9, 2022 17:34:18 GMT
Jesus reading this thread I'm glad I fucked off. I'm living in a large 2-bedroom downtown apartment that comes to a princely 450 quid a month, bills aren't shit and we have more money than we know what to do with, eat out every day due to the abundance of pretty decent restaurants within walking distance and considering buying a McMansion up the street on the lake for an unfathomable 100k. Brexit did a number on you. Is that US? In mid west or something?
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Post by Danno on Feb 9, 2022 17:55:57 GMT
Housing was fucked loooong before Brexit
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anephric
Junior Member
The first 6 I took out with a whirlwind kick
Posts: 1,511
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Post by anephric on Feb 9, 2022 17:57:41 GMT
It's fucked in pretty much every developed country, they've all followed the same trend. There's only some parts of the US that still have affordable big housing and then you have to find the jobs to live there. The east and west coasts are pornographic.
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Post by 😎 on Feb 9, 2022 18:06:16 GMT
Yeah, it depends on where the booms happen in the US. I lucked out and got in before our area saw rapid expansion, my $220k home is now worth over half a mil, and I could easily see how a similar house to mine in one of the coastal areas would be well into 7 figures. But there’s also still huge demand here so people looking to buy often get outbid by others paying over the odds. It’s glory days right now if you want to live in bumfuck county ruralsville and work remotely for Cali wages, not so much if you want something more 21st century. I’ve managed to hit the happy medium between those, but not everyone would have that luxury.
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Deleted
Deleted Member
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Post by Deleted on Feb 9, 2022 18:09:11 GMT
Texas is pretty good, isn't it, gremmi? I guess things have probably changed in recent years, but I recall the state having a lot of big corporations and tech companies while still having fairly affordable housing available. The downside is that you're living in Texas.
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Post by spacein_vader on Feb 9, 2022 18:24:11 GMT
Texas is pretty good, isn't it, gremmi? I guess things have probably changed in recent years, but I recall the state having a lot of big corporations and tech companies while still having fairly affordable housing available. The downside is that you're living in Texas. More that you're living with Texans.
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Post by 😎 on Feb 9, 2022 18:32:13 GMT
I’ve heard Austin is pretty good, a blue spot in the middle of a reddish/purple mess.
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Post by khanivor on Feb 9, 2022 18:34:57 GMT
The place I have moved into has unbelievably thick carpet in the living room which is lovely and warm but I am really tempted to rip it up and do bare floorboards. Any ideas on how much it would cost to get someone to do it, including insulation underneath? I guess they would need cleaning up a bit and staining etc. Unless you live in a bright house with plenty of natural light AND the rooms are pretty massive, don’t stain. Go natural instead. Keeps cost down as well. Money that can be spent of higher quality wood.
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Post by technoish on Feb 9, 2022 18:46:24 GMT
The place I have moved into has unbelievably thick carpet in the living room which is lovely and warm but I am really tempted to rip it up and do bare floorboards. Any ideas on how much it would cost to get someone to do it, including insulation underneath? I guess they would need cleaning up a bit and staining etc. Unless you live in a bright house with plenty of natural light AND the rooms are pretty massive, don’t stain. Go natural instead. Keeps cost down as well. Money that can be spent of higher quality wood. I think point is the floorboards are already there, and probably pine (which isn't the most attractive yellow colour usually). If you are doing a new wood floor, it is probably engineered wood (unless you for out a lot for solid wood), and then you just pick the colour you want.
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Post by khanivor on Feb 9, 2022 18:51:59 GMT
Hire a professional unless it’s a cupboard or small room and you’re not fussy about the result. If you plan on staining then doing it yourself is basically guaranteed to give shit results.
Moving all the furniture around is a massive pain but should only be for a few days.
Don’t use oil unless you’ve got heart pine, which is unlikely in the UK. Water based all the way. More expensive but much tougher and also a lot quicker with negligible VOCs. (You cannot just put oil down with a rag every few years. Either you were lied to or the UK has an oil based product not heard of in the US. Oil is much easier to apply if you DIY but it’s an inferior product all round. Water based pretty much requires a professional. You also should never need to resend a floor unless it gets comprehensively fucked up or you want to change the color with a new stain. A buff and coat will keep them floors fresh. Reminds me, if you’ve never used a buffer before don’t learn how to in a small room or anywhere near a wall.
If you are refinishing existing wood the best plan is to hire a pro. They will have the right equipment, (unless you live near a rental place that hires out the big belt sanders you aren’t going to get good results for any size able project) and the know how. It’s difficult to get good results, especially on a softer hardwood like pine and it’s brutal physically.
If you are ripping out existing and installing get prefinished for sure. This can be done if you have rudimentary carpentry skills and learn the basics before starting. Only downside is prefinished is easy to damage during installation. Also, unless your subfloor demands it, (say concrete) engineered wood is shite. If it gets jacked up or you or a potential buyer wants to change the look you are ripping it out and installing new. It’s very hard to sand an engineered wood unless you know what you are doing. Even then, you can go through the veneer.
I’ve been doing refinishing and installing of hardwood for the last nine years as my livelihood. Sanded literally hundreds of jobs and installed dozens. Any questions, happy to help anyone considering the project.
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Post by technoish on Feb 9, 2022 19:06:39 GMT
Osmo polyx oil and tints, which all of the professionals I got quotes from (or had awesome results on insta lol) used - that or Bona (which is what the kitchen diner was done in before we bought the house and is nowhere near as nice). It is not water based - oils and waxes, I believe. Seems to be low VOCs.
It's holding up really well so far. I'm no professional, but my Joe Rogan research brought this out as a great product. I also used it on our banisters to get a similar finish.
It must be widely available in US tho, based on various articles about it.
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Post by khanivor on Feb 9, 2022 19:26:34 GMT
I use Bona all the time. Got certified at their training school, which might have colored my opinion of water vs oil. Perhaps the product you refer to is a water based oil product. Hybrids are quite popular
The physics behind it still puts me in water based only, unless the project is better suited by oil
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Post by technoish on Feb 9, 2022 19:42:09 GMT
I use Bona all the time. Got certified at their training school, which might have colored my opinion of water vs oil. Perhaps the product you refer to is a water based oil product. Hybrids are quite popular The physics behind it still puts me in water based only, unless the project is better suited by oil Maybe you were thinking oil based vs water based polyurethane coatings? (Bona does do both). These put a protective layer on top of the wood (often called lacquer or varnish here). The Osmo oils are not polyurethane based, and work by being absorbed into the wood. It really is as easy as dragging a rag with the oil over the floor - just like when you would oil or wax furniture.
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Post by khanivor on Feb 9, 2022 21:18:33 GMT
I read up on it and withdraw my criticism before. I’ve used teak oil on a floor, which is essentially the same thing. Ballache that was as it bedded half dozen applications
Still dubious you’d get a good finish with a rag. I’d use a roller or similar applicator to make sure you get even coverage
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dmukgr
Junior Member
Posts: 1,517
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Post by dmukgr on Feb 9, 2022 21:20:19 GMT
Where are you based Khanivor?
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Post by khanivor on Feb 9, 2022 21:26:29 GMT
The Buckle of the Bible Belt. For my sins
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Post by technoish on Feb 9, 2022 21:31:27 GMT
I read up on it and withdraw my criticism before. I’ve used teak oil on a floor, which is essentially the same thing. Ballache that was as it bedded half dozen applications Still dubious you’d get a good finish with a rag. I’d use a roller or similar applicator to make sure you get even coverage Yeah that is probably more for smaller repair and touch ups, although I have seen people do it with cloth on YouTube.
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Post by khanivor on Feb 9, 2022 21:32:05 GMT
Aye, a wee spot would be fine. A whole floor, na.
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