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Post by AgentHomer on Jun 15, 2023 12:04:41 GMT
Not really relevant at all but I saw a 4080 in the flesh yesterday in the window my local CEX. My goodness that is one huge, beast of a card. My last GPU was a 2060 Super and it was positively tiny in comparison! For the money they cost, at least you feel like you are getting something impressively large!
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Post by Vandelay on Jun 15, 2023 15:20:55 GMT
Think they are the same size as the 4090s. Recall reading that for some reason Nvidia went with the same cooling solution for both 4080 and 4090, even though the 80 is quite a bit less powerful. Not sure if any third parties have gone for smaller cooling solutions, but seems most have kept to the same size.
I did check before ordering and, with the HDD mounts removed, it fits in my case. I can imagine there are lots of people that would need new cases though.
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Post by Fake_Blood on Jun 15, 2023 15:27:12 GMT
How many frames/kg do you guys get?
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Post by Vandelay on Jun 16, 2023 10:22:57 GMT
I'll let you know, as I've gone and ordered the 4090 (from Overclockers - I'll be using the £50 voucher from Box on something that is about £50).
Obscenely expensive at £1,500, but seems less obscene than a 4080 for £1,200. Well done Nvidia, you got me.
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Post by Fake_Blood on Jun 16, 2023 10:27:55 GMT
Which one did you end up buying?
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Post by Vandelay on Jun 16, 2023 10:35:03 GMT
The one I could get the cheapest. I don't see much point in spending more on overclocked versions, as the improvement is negligible. As long as it is reasonable good brand than I will just go for the cheapest.
So, it is the Gainward Phantom 4090. I did double check a couple of reviews, mostly for acoustics and temps, which were positive on both accounts. One of those reviews actually called it the best 4090.
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Post by Phattso on Jun 16, 2023 10:37:54 GMT
Good call on avoiding an overclocked version. In reality, there's so much power there that people have been *under* clocking to save on power and reduce heat. What a world we live in.
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Post by Fake_Blood on Jun 16, 2023 10:43:22 GMT
Especially with this weather. Got my Reverb G2 this week, I've been trying to do some Flight Sim vr but basically had to aim a fan at where I'm sitting.
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Post by dfunked on Jun 16, 2023 10:46:51 GMT
Aye, undervolting my 3080 is a no-brainer for the minimal loss of performance Vs huge reduction in heat output and power draw.
Even so it gets a bit disgusting in my office. Currently 26 degrees in here and not pleasant if you add to that...
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Post by Vandelay on Jun 16, 2023 10:48:51 GMT
That is what I'm planning to do. I understand you can cut it by 20% for barely any performance loss.
I think the reason it doesn't reduce performance much is because it rarely hits the power limit anyway, so not sure how much it will actually save on energy cost and heat.
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crashV👀d👀
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Post by crashV👀d👀 on Jun 16, 2023 11:23:29 GMT
Great news on the 4090, it's costly without a doublt but stacked against its peers it just makes more sense overall. Did you get a free copy of D4 as well?
I have the Fe model and have reduced it down to saved on power and heat. Can't remember the actual value but I mentioned it on one of the pages back in this thread. It made nearly zero different to the performance in games.
I hope starfield releases in a better state than some of the other pc stuff recently, I have gamepass and I want in on day 1 and I want it to look slick AF
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Post by Vandelay on Jun 16, 2023 11:32:24 GMT
Did you get a free copy of D4 as well? The deal ended, I think, start of this week. So, this card doesn't come with one. I did receive a code from Box for the 4080 I ordered last week though, so I'll give that a go. No idea if the Gainward Phantom was ever part of the deal and not sure whether it checks brand, but hopefully it will just check I have a 40-series and accept it.
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Post by Fake_Blood on Jun 16, 2023 12:46:10 GMT
Great news on the 4090, it's costly without a doublt but stacked against its peers it just makes more sense overall. Did you get a free copy of D4 as well? I have the Fe model and have reduced it down to saved on power and heat. Can't remember the actual value but I mentioned it on one of the pages back in this thread. It made nearly zero different to the performance in games. I hope starfield releases in a better state than some of the other pc stuff recently, I have gamepass and I want in on day 1 and I want it to look slick AF Probably CPU limited though according to DF.
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Post by Vandelay on Jun 17, 2023 15:11:15 GMT
The beast has arrived!
It really is a big bugger, making my 2080 look piddling in comparison. Playing around with some benchmarks now. Cyberpunk completely maxed out runs pretty much flawlessly at 4K, albeit needing DLSS 3 to do that (only about 20fps with it off). It is one I will likely play on the monitor rather than TV though and at the native ultrawide 1440p it is comfortably over 60fps with just DLSS 2 and no frame generation, so think that is the way I will go when I play it properly*.
Just tried the Hitman benchmarks and that has no issue at 4k totally maxed with all ray traced bells and whistles on. The Dubai benchmark looked particularly good.
Plus, put the Diablo 4 code I got last week with my aborted 4080 purchase and it worked with this card.
Now, think I'm going to try and figure out how to do power limiting and see how much difference that makes to these benchmarks.
*Recent preview of Phantom Liberty say they are doing a complete revamp of the core systems and updating lots of the base game. I'll probably wait the 3 months for that to be out before I actually play.
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crashV👀d👀
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Post by crashV👀d👀 on Jun 17, 2023 20:01:35 GMT
Is cyberpunk with the full RT overdrive ?
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Post by Vandelay on Jun 17, 2023 20:13:38 GMT
Yeah, all turned up (including one option that has a psycho setting that doesn't seem to enable unless you manually do it). I would have to double check, but I think with DLSS 2 on it was averaging 60fps at 4k, with maybe the odd dip into the mid 50s, so probably playable without frame generation. This is just the benchmark in the menu though, so not sure if that is representative of the actual game.
I dropped the power usage target down to 80% and that seems to have had negligible impact on performance, so will be sticking with that. I expect a lot of games wont even use anywhere near that though; played a bit of Street Fighter VI at 4K and the couple of glances at power consumption showed it not even using 30% to get solid 60fps.
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Post by Fake_Blood on Jun 18, 2023 8:41:40 GMT
What’s this aversion to dlss3, played Cyberpunk and Portal RTX that way and it seemed fine?
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Post by crashV👀d👀 on Jun 18, 2023 8:46:08 GMT
Somebody said fake frames and now everybody is pulling it down as a bad thing. Portal was perfectly fine with it.
CP2077 also runs perfectly with it. Any image issues are not perceivable in motion.
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Post by Vandelay on Jun 18, 2023 9:18:00 GMT
The problem with DLSS 3 is your inputs are still registering at the speed of the base frames (or the frames you would be getting with DLSS 2). The game isn't actually running at those frame rates, so if you are only getting 45fps without DLSS3, then it might look smoother, but will still feel as smooth as 45fps. It's less of an issue the higher the frame rate you are getting, but also less necessary.
DLSS 2 can go either way. I would probably go native resolution when I can, but sometimes the DLSS image can actually look better than native, sometimes it doesn't.
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Post by crashV👀d👀 on Jun 18, 2023 13:54:40 GMT
If I can go native, I now pick DLAA instead of DLSS because using all those AI cores for AA makes games look the shit
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Post by lukasz on Jun 19, 2023 2:44:54 GMT
So my ram last year was crashing my pc when gaming.
So I took my wife ram and gave her mine. She doesn't game anymore.
But it occasionally crashes integrated gpu which needs to be reset by physcially disconnecting monitor.
I didn't tell her anything what I have done. Games work for me right?
Got annoyed for her and I came clean lol.
So had to get her new ram. Better than mine lol. Good thing they are so cheap nowadays. Paid 200 aud for my 5 years ago and now they are 65 aud.
Getting her corsair 3600 16gb kit.
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Post by Vandelay on Jun 19, 2023 13:25:05 GMT
Was going to do some testing of this later, but thought it worth asking in here for a bit of advise as well. Airflow in my case has always been a bit shit, but with a GPU that is obviously going to output a lot of heat and one that I'm going to want to last a while it is something that is probably worth sorting. Plus, I have the £50 voucher from Box, so can make quite a dent in the cost with that.
Right now, I have a Be Quiet! Pure Base 600 case. I picked it up thinking I wanted a quiet case, but the poor air flow just means fans have to run more and I have to have the top partly opened, completely defeating the purpose of having a quiet case. I have the stock case fans (one 120mm pure wing 2 at the front as intake and 1 140mm pure wing 2 at the back as exhaust). I also have Corsair H100i Pro XT aio CPU cooler, with radiator and stock fans positioned at top (seem to have those as intake, which may not be ideal, although I remember playing quite a bit with the configuration when I first installed it).
As I say, I'm going to do some testing under load, but a check after 15 minutes of idle following boot has my temps as CPU package at 52c (cores are 41.8c) and GPU at 44c (hotspot 54c). Perhaps worth noting that the GPU was at about 34c right after boot and climbed by 10c just sitting there. Not sure if that would be expected or if it is a sign of hot air not leaving the case.
I recall at the time of getting my CPU (a Ryzen 5800x) that the temps were high compared to what I was seeing from others, but unlikely to be damagingly so. I also originally had an air cooler for the CPU and didn't notice much difference when switching to the aio.
Getting to the actual question though, if it turns out my load temps are particularly high, would it be worth me switching those stock fans (maybe even the ones on the CPU cooler as well) for different ones and making sure I have two at the front or would the difference likely be negligible and I should just get a new case?
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Post by crashV👀d👀 on Jun 19, 2023 14:27:09 GMT
It reads like you have 2 fans at the top (pulling or pushing) cold air downwards through the rad against the natural heat flow (rising).
Is your front fan mounted up top-front to push cold air through and clearing the heated air from the aio and GPU out the back fan?
Or is it mounted lower down to push the warm air from the GPU (that's expelling downwards, assuming normal mounting) and out of the PCI slot area? You're relying on the rear fan to pull the warm air out here.
Is it possible to front mount the rad and pull air through it and then have case fans venting up and out?
Could introduce a second front fan to aid pushing cool air through because it sounds like it's doing some heavy lifting.
I've never been an expert with the fan shit. For my setup I have a front mounted aio and 3 140 low profile fans push air through and in. 2 top and 1 rear fan exhasting air out. Temps usually sit around 45-55 CPU and 50-60 GPU under load. I don't think.l I've seen either go above 65 during this current heatwave. I'm happy with these, not sure if it's ideal or not
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Post by Vandelay on Jun 19, 2023 14:54:24 GMT
Yeah, I'm going to try switching those fans for the aio radiator around. I'm sure I played around with it when setting it up and didn't seem to make much difference, but exhaust if on top makes much more sense.
Not sure if it will fit at the front. I have drive bays (an HDD one and a blu ray drive) that will likely get in the way
Also noticed I had a fan from an old CPU cooler kicking about that looks the right size to go in the front. Will see if adding that helps.
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Post by Fake_Blood on Jun 19, 2023 15:13:09 GMT
I’d leave the radiator on top but indeed use it as an exhaust, and as many fans as possible on the front. Imo a radiator is a serious restriction to airflow, I had mine at the front but there really isn’t much airflow coming out for the rest of the system. Don’t know how your 4090 is set up but in general 4000 range cards exhaust towards the top of the system anyway. Those idle temps seem fine to me though.
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crashV👀d👀
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Post by crashV👀d👀 on Jun 19, 2023 15:20:44 GMT
I was always concerned that if the rad was at the top the Id be exhausting warm air through it and out but never actually tested it or found compelling evidence either way. Once I'd managed to get it in the front with 3 decent fans I just thought fuck it, its cold enough.
I might spend an hour or so swapping it around myself and see what happens ... or I might not and just play diablo
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Post by Vandelay on Jun 19, 2023 16:13:42 GMT
Ok, switched the radiator fans around and I was initially confused as the idle temp seemed to be higher than when they were around the other way. Probably just because I didn't give it enough time after boot to settle though.
Played Quake 2 RTX for about 15 mins. Previously played that and noticed the side of the case was absolutely roasting and I think the GPU had reached up to 80c, possibly a bit more. This time max temps on CPU package was 74.8c and max temp on GPU was 67c (76.6c on the hot spot). GPU went down really quickly to settle at 41-42c whilst alt-tabbed and fans switched off. Radiator fans kept going for a long time and seems to be that is where most of the noise from case comes from.
Temps don't seem as bad as I thought they would be though. So, outside of having those radiator fans being more efficient, probably not much need to change it up.
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Post by BeetrootBertie on Jun 27, 2023 18:54:03 GMT
I've been recently having some issues with the old-ish hand-me-down from a mate. I've upgraded the CPU to an i7 4790 from an i5 and upgraded the GPU to a GTX 1660 Super from an AMD R7 265 without issue but lately it's been having issues booting up from cold where it just hangs. The wired 360 pad light just flashes constantly, and most of the time the display goes to sleep again, noting there's no signal (sometimes it hangs on the ASUS pre-bios/boot splash screen).
Pressing the restart buttons solves it and it boots up fine, without any loss of settings like time/date etc (I wondered if the battery needed changing). I've checked the RAM and other connections to ensure everything's seated and shorted the CMOS pins to clear that but it's still happening. Any ideas?
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Post by Fake_Blood on Jun 27, 2023 20:01:49 GMT
Could be one of the power rails slightly dipping during boot, I guess the psu is as old as the other stuff?
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Post by BeetrootBertie on Jun 27, 2023 20:12:06 GMT
Aye. It's a 500W FSP500-60HHN. I think it (the whole PC) was bought 2014-ish. It was a pre-assembled one from Chillblast.
Just tried booting from a USB stick to repair start up stuff, but it says it can't do that (Dave) for some reason.
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