nexus6
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Post by nexus6 on Oct 26, 2022 16:30:18 GMT
That's interesting cheers. I only really burn the hardwoods (stove snob, me) but the sweep always says it was needing it etc. Maybe just talking himself up.
Fill yer boots then!
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Post by grey_matters on Oct 26, 2022 16:50:29 GMT
That's interesting cheers. I only really burn the hardwoods (stove snob, me) but the sweep always says it was needing it etc. Maybe just talking himself up. Fill yer boots then! I've got a lot of conifer wood too so I guess I should get the flue swept more regularly, initially at least.
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Post by henroben on Oct 26, 2022 16:53:57 GMT
That's interesting cheers. I only really burn the hardwoods (stove snob, me) but the sweep always says it was needing it etc. Maybe just talking himself up. Fill yer boots then! Hardwoods just give you more bang for your buck - burn longer and hotter than soft woods. There's nothing inherently wrong with burning pine etc. just means you have to put more logs in more often. One of the issues with pine and some other softwoods is that they can spit a lot, which isn't an issue in a stove, but can be a nasty surprise in an open fire...
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nexus6
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Post by nexus6 on Oct 26, 2022 17:25:14 GMT
I thought pine gave off more tar in the burning process?
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Post by henroben on Oct 26, 2022 18:00:32 GMT
I thought pine gave off more tar in the burning process? Some varieties of pine can certainly contain more pitch, but I don't think they necessarily create more creosote. I think the main issue is that pine can be quite sappy and take longer to dry out than you might expect, so it could create a bit more creosote than a different wood due to a higher moisture content. But as far as I'm aware, the main cause of creosote build up is not running your stove at the correct temperature - if it's too low you'll get a smoky sulky fire and it's that smoke that'll be full of creosote and, of course, not cleaning your chimney. Generally speaking a hot fire is a clean fire. This is just my rough rule of thumb, but I've found soft woods are good for getting a wood fire started - as they tend to catch and burn quickly and hot, giving you a good bed of embers quickly, and for chucking on a coal fire when you want a bit extra warmth or the pleasure of watching a log burn. Hardwoods in my experience are better for an actual wood fire / stove as they burn hotter and longer, so you don't have to keep loading it with more logs all the time! For the most part wood is wood, so burn what you can get - with obvious exceptions like laburnum which is of course poisonous.
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nexus6
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Post by nexus6 on Oct 26, 2022 18:04:50 GMT
Every day is a school day
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dogbot
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Post by dogbot on Oct 26, 2022 18:14:18 GMT
I think it's already been said, but a stove pipe thermometer is invaluable when you're getting used to the temperatures.
Our old one even said "Creosote!" on it where it was getting into the cold zone. Tbh, it broke and I haven't replaced it yet.
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Post by Dougs on Oct 26, 2022 20:49:32 GMT
On the subject of sweeping, worth checking out house insurance. Some insist on twice yearly.
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Post by darkling on Oct 27, 2022 10:19:10 GMT
Unfortunately restacking my logs a little further back into the store hasn't done the trick and they're still getting wet. They're as far back as I can possibly stack them, and I even stacked the shorter logs at the bottom to ensure this.
I used this morning's rainshower to assess a few things, and because of my store's short roof overhang, it does seem that water is dripping down directly at the front of the store and splashing back into the store somehow, as some of the lower logs had water on them, despite it being a short, gentle rainshower. Whether this is off the paving slabs or the lip of the store itself is unclear.
Fortunately, I have a stack of spare roof slates, so I placed a few of them along the bottom of the store to shield the lower logs. Hopefully this'll solve the issue for now. I think a proper solution would be to increase the roof overhang and put the store up on bricks, but I can't face emptying the store again, but maybe I'll do it in a few months when the store is emptier, if there's any dry weather.
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dogbot
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Post by dogbot on Oct 27, 2022 10:32:20 GMT
On the subject of sweeping, worth checking out house insurance. Some insist on twice yearly. I checked mine and there's nothing whatsoever in there. The word "chimney" isn't mentioned in any of the docs. I asked the guy who did mine about this and he said some people do have it done twice a year, per the advice - but it's rarely necessary nowadays unless you have it on all the time. For most people who have central heating as well, once a year should be sufficient, unless you're burning industrial coal (which you probably shouldn't in a log burner) or something. -- darkling bugger. Could you get a tarp for the front/lower half?
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Post by darkling on Oct 27, 2022 10:58:37 GMT
dogbot Yes that might be an idea, although it'd be a fair bit of work to source a decent tarp of the correct size, then somehow attach it well enough to withstand any strong winds. I'm also a bit apprehensive about introducing plastic sheets in case the logs sweat, but if I only cover the bottom half that might not be an issue. I think the slate tiles will do a good enough job for now. I'm still wondering how my neighbour's log store isn't subject to any issues. I think it must be because it's half as tall, as well as sitting on a raised bit of astroturf, so no splashback. Some of his logs are literally hanging out the front of the store, beyond the roof overhang, yet still appear to be bone dry. Baffling.
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Post by Zomoniac on Oct 27, 2022 11:18:58 GMT
We recently switched suppliers and went from misc hardwood to all ash. Logs are lasting more than twice as long now. More expensive but definitely worth it.
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Post by henroben on Oct 27, 2022 11:40:07 GMT
dogbot Yes that might be an idea, although it'd be a fair bit of work to source a decent tarp of the correct size, then somehow attach it well enough to withstand any strong winds. I'm also a bit apprehensive about introducing plastic sheets in case the logs sweat, but if I only cover the bottom half that might not be an issue. I think the slate tiles will do a good enough job for now. I'm still wondering how my neighbour's log store isn't subject to any issues. I think it must be because it's half as tall, as well as sitting on a raised bit of astroturf, so no splashback. Some of his logs are literally hanging out the front of the store, beyond the roof overhang, yet still appear to be bone dry. Baffling. It will be a mix of issues, but the main one will be the fact your log store is on a hard surface - rain drops will splash more when hitting paving, as well as a surface water developing after a while, which will also increase the splashing. Your neighbour's store being located on astroturf will certainly help dissipate the energy from the rain drops hitting, as well as blocking some of what splash there is. I wouldn't worry too much about using plastic sheets etc - most issues with sweating / damp etc. caused by sheeting are from when seasoning green logs, or you've got water ingress & wet logs. If your logs are dry to start with you shouldn't get any issues. But is does sound like the issue is splashback so the tiles should help, and I'd imagine that moving the logs back has helped reduce the amount of water hitting the logs, if not actually stopped it.
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nexus6
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Post by nexus6 on Oct 27, 2022 12:40:42 GMT
I think we need to start looking at this neighbour of yours.
Him pissing in your log store beyond doubt is it? Some sort of warlock-woven log store enchantment pushing his moisture over to yours?
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Post by quadfather on Oct 27, 2022 12:58:20 GMT
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nexus6
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Post by nexus6 on Oct 27, 2022 13:07:15 GMT
Quaddy's got wood.
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Post by darkling on Oct 27, 2022 15:12:04 GMT
dogbot Yes that might be an idea, although it'd be a fair bit of work to source a decent tarp of the correct size, then somehow attach it well enough to withstand any strong winds. I'm also a bit apprehensive about introducing plastic sheets in case the logs sweat, but if I only cover the bottom half that might not be an issue. I think the slate tiles will do a good enough job for now. I'm still wondering how my neighbour's log store isn't subject to any issues. I think it must be because it's half as tall, as well as sitting on a raised bit of astroturf, so no splashback. Some of his logs are literally hanging out the front of the store, beyond the roof overhang, yet still appear to be bone dry. Baffling. It will be a mix of issues, but the main one will be the fact your log store is on a hard surface - rain drops will splash more when hitting paving, as well as a surface water developing after a while, which will also increase the splashing. Your neighbour's store being located on astroturf will certainly help dissipate the energy from the rain drops hitting, as well as blocking some of what splash there is. I wouldn't worry too much about using plastic sheets etc - most issues with sweating / damp etc. caused by sheeting are from when seasoning green logs, or you've got water ingress & wet logs. If your logs are dry to start with you shouldn't get any issues. But is does sound like the issue is splashback so the tiles should help, and I'd imagine that moving the logs back has helped reduce the amount of water hitting the logs, if not actually stopped it. Yeah I totally agree with your assessment. These paving slabs mean that my store's going to be sitting in water most of the winter, with water splashing everywhere. The picture of my log store on the website even shows it on hard ground, and I imagine most people would put in on a paved area, so I've just got to conclude it's badly designed. On the upside, the tiles worked well. At lunchtime, I checked the logs that got a bit wet this morning and they were completely dry again. I think they'll be an adequate solution until I can extend the roof overhang and ultimately prop it up on bricks. nexus6 I highly suspect my neighbour of being in allegiance with Satan and all his little wizards, possibly even going as far as piss-based antics under cover of darkness. At the very least he's erected an unholy forcefield around his log store. On wood types, I've always found oak a little difficult to burn. It tends to start strong, but then smoulder and go out unless you add further wood to the fire, in my experience. I much prefer birch. It burns very well, but not too fast.
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Post by henroben on Oct 27, 2022 15:23:07 GMT
I've got my log store sitting on bare earth, well the legs are on some old roof tiles, but it's bare earth underneath and in front of it, with a layer of splinters of wood from splitting logs nearby - seems to work well for absorbing rain & reducing splash back, as the only time the lower logs ever get even slightly damp is when the wind gets up and shifts to the opposite direction to normal, which thankfully doesn't happen very often.
I'm presuming you did site your log store with the opening facing away from the prevalent wind direction?
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Post by darkling on Oct 27, 2022 16:38:58 GMT
Yeah I'd imagine that works well, with the earth absorbing the water. I just never assumed water bouncing off paving slabs would ever be an issue. I'm surprised more people haven't reported this same issue online with their log stores.
I was actually looking at prevailing wind direction the other day, which I believe is from the south west in the UK. My log store faces south, so it gets the sun (this was advised online) and it's sheltered by a fence and a tree immediately to the west, the but to be honest it's in the only place I've got room for it in my garden.
I'm a little worried about driving rain from the south if the wind gets up.
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Post by henroben on Nov 2, 2022 15:53:04 GMT
Was doing some hunting around for the kWh values for various fuels, as was talking about it with a colleague - these might be of interest to some of you, possibly...
1 Kg of air dried hardwood (<20% moisture): 4.2 kWh. 1 Kg of manufactured hard wood log briquettes: 5.2 kWh. 1 Kg of man made smokeless fuel: 5 kWh. 1 Kg of bituminous (house) coal: 7 kWh. 1 Kg of anthracite (hard) coal: 9.2 kWh.
I'd say these feel about right, as my stove is 4.2 kW and I tend to put in 2 0.5kg logs every hour.
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Post by darkling on Nov 5, 2022 17:32:17 GMT
Can anyone recommend any black heat resistant paint?
The paint on the removable retaining bars at the front of my stove has started to flake off, and it looks a bit shit. I haven't hit the bars with tools or logs or anything. The paint is visibly cracked and flaking, probably due to the heat.
Quite annoyed because it's a brand new stove and I've only used it twice.
I've read some reviews for paint available at Screwfix and Amazon, but the negative reviews suggest the paint is useless.
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technoish
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Post by technoish on Nov 5, 2022 17:44:41 GMT
Can anyone recommend any black heat resistant paint? The paint on the removable retaining bars at the front of my stove has started to flake off, and it looks a bit shit. I haven't hit the bars with tools or logs or anything. The paint is visibly cracked and flaking, probably due to the heat. Quite annoyed because it's a brand new stove and I've only used it twice. I've read some reviews for paint available at Screwfix and Amazon, but the negative reviews suggest the paint is useless. Always the manufacturer/ retailer first? If it is brand new...
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Post by darkling on Nov 5, 2022 18:33:19 GMT
technoish Yes you're right, but I thought it might just be quicker and easier to rectify the issue myself. The stove fitter also supplied the stove, so I've sent him an email asking if he can rectify the issue.
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Post by henroben on Nov 6, 2022 9:25:50 GMT
Can anyone recommend any black heat resistant paint? The paint on the removable retaining bars at the front of my stove has started to flake off, and it looks a bit shit. I haven't hit the bars with tools or logs or anything. The paint is visibly cracked and flaking, probably due to the heat. Quite annoyed because it's a brand new stove and I've only used it twice. I've read some reviews for paint available at Screwfix and Amazon, but the negative reviews suggest the paint is useless. If it's new and you've only used it twice, then I'm wondering if you've fired it too hot for too long. You usually need to have a succession of small fires in a new stove, gradually getting them hotter & longer over several days to cure the paint. If you fire it too hot for too long it can cause the paint to flake as it dries out too quickly. Alternatively, you could have rubbed / bashed against the bars when loading the stove - while it's curing the paint can be quite soft and you don't need that much force to remove some, it can come away just from rubbing against something. Calfire stove paint usually gets good reviews, at least the bars will be easy to take out and given a quick spray!
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Post by darkling on Nov 6, 2022 12:45:15 GMT
Can anyone recommend any black heat resistant paint? The paint on the removable retaining bars at the front of my stove has started to flake off, and it looks a bit shit. I haven't hit the bars with tools or logs or anything. The paint is visibly cracked and flaking, probably due to the heat. Quite annoyed because it's a brand new stove and I've only used it twice. I've read some reviews for paint available at Screwfix and Amazon, but the negative reviews suggest the paint is useless. If it's new and you've only used it twice, then I'm wondering if you've fired it too hot for too long. You usually need to have a succession of small fires in a new stove, gradually getting them hotter & longer over several days to cure the paint. If you fire it too hot for too long it can cause the paint to flake as it dries out too quickly. Alternatively, you could have rubbed / bashed against the bars when loading the stove - while it's curing the paint can be quite soft and you don't need that much force to remove some, it can come away just from rubbing against something. Calfire stove paint usually gets good reviews, at least the bars will be easy to take out and given a quick spray! Yes I saw a YouTube video about how to fire a brand new stove and I did exactly what it said for a steel-bodied stove. For the first firing, start with a small fire with a small amount of fuel for a couple of hours at low temperature. Then next time do a larger second firing for at least 3 hours to cure the paint. I was wondering if my second firing was maybe a bit too much, but I've been fairly careful. I haven't bashed the bars with logs or tools. You can visible see the paint is cracked and flaking on the retaining bars. The rest of the stove paint seems fine. I actually messaged a YouTuber with the same stove who said he has the exact same issue with the bars. The installer - who also supplied the stove - has kindly agreed to come over next week and give it a spray with some paint.
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Post by quadfather on Nov 6, 2022 12:58:07 GMT
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Post by henroben on Nov 6, 2022 13:47:31 GMT
If it's new and you've only used it twice, then I'm wondering if you've fired it too hot for too long. You usually need to have a succession of small fires in a new stove, gradually getting them hotter & longer over several days to cure the paint. If you fire it too hot for too long it can cause the paint to flake as it dries out too quickly. Alternatively, you could have rubbed / bashed against the bars when loading the stove - while it's curing the paint can be quite soft and you don't need that much force to remove some, it can come away just from rubbing against something. Calfire stove paint usually gets good reviews, at least the bars will be easy to take out and given a quick spray! Yes I saw a YouTube video about how to fire a brand new stove and I did exactly what it said for a steel-bodied stove. For the first firing, start with a small fire with a small amount of fuel for a couple of hours at low temperature. Then next time do a larger second firing for at least 3 hours to cure the paint. I was wondering if my second firing was maybe a bit too much, but I've been fairly careful. I haven't bashed the bars with logs or tools. You can visible see the paint is cracked and flaking on the retaining bars. The rest of the stove paint seems fine. I actually messaged a YouTuber with the same stove who said he has the exact same issue with the bars. The installer - who also supplied the stove - has kindly agreed to come over next week and give it a spray with some paint. Oh, I didn't realise it was a steel one, I presumed it'd be a cast iron one, which tend to need a more gentle curing / seasoning process. Perhaps the bars are a bit thin and they flex when heating up? That might explain the paint flaking. Or maybe they just did a bad job with the initial painting? If they sprayed it, it's entirely possible there's less paint on the bars due to their shape?
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technoish
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Post by technoish on Nov 6, 2022 21:27:34 GMT
Got me some oak logs for first time, and man are they awesome. Smells better and burns for longer. Threw in a log as it was dying down after dinner before kids bedtime and then did dishes after that and just came back to it and a new log took fire straight away.
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Post by stixxuk on Nov 6, 2022 21:43:03 GMT
What do people with open fires use to block it when not in use?
I was looking at ordering a chimney sheep, just need to make sure I get the right size, and that it's not too messy and there's somewhere to store it when the fire is being used.
Meant to do this ages ago but the current situation with energy bills has made it more pertinent.
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Post by darkling on Nov 6, 2022 21:43:45 GMT
Yes I saw a YouTube video about how to fire a brand new stove and I did exactly what it said for a steel-bodied stove. For the first firing, start with a small fire with a small amount of fuel for a couple of hours at low temperature. Then next time do a larger second firing for at least 3 hours to cure the paint. I was wondering if my second firing was maybe a bit too much, but I've been fairly careful. I haven't bashed the bars with logs or tools. You can visible see the paint is cracked and flaking on the retaining bars. The rest of the stove paint seems fine. I actually messaged a YouTuber with the same stove who said he has the exact same issue with the bars. The installer - who also supplied the stove - has kindly agreed to come over next week and give it a spray with some paint. Oh, I didn't realise it was a steel one, I presumed it'd be a cast iron one, which tend to need a more gentle curing / seasoning process. Perhaps the bars are a bit thin and they flex when heating up? That might explain the paint flaking. Or maybe they just did a bad job with the initial painting? If they sprayed it, it's entirely possible there's less paint on the bars due to their shape? Yeah it's steel with a cast iron door. The paint flaking problem does seem confined to the cylindrical bars, and not the rest of the metal that makes up the log retainer. I think it's maybe because the paint isn't on a flat surface, and maybe wasn't painted well in the first place. Anyway, not the end of the world. The retaining bars sit within the burn chamber, so they're bound to get hammered and become discoloured eventually.
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