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Post by Dougs on Dec 5, 2022 22:56:19 GMT
That looks sweet as! The other option is to put the telly on the wall opposite the window but then the shutters will need to be shut virtually all the time as it's an OLED. minimatt, thanks - I guess I'll just discuss options with the installer.
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Post by TheSaint on Dec 5, 2022 22:57:47 GMT
Was there a standard reason they all mentioned, out of interest? Not really just different variations of it being too hot.
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Post by jeepers on Dec 6, 2022 11:37:06 GMT
Can anyone recommend a good smokeless fuel for an open fire? I’m using HomeFire Smokeless but, Christ, it’s a pain in the arse compared to coal. Takes forever to catch, radiates significantly less than coal and just makes a fire a chore rather than a pleasure. Also - I’m getting mixed messages on using anthracite in an open fire - some folk saying Great, go for it and others saying Just doesn’t work. Any experiences? I used to use anthracite when I had an open fire - and in fact have 6 bags in the garden for my stove as well! It's great! However... unlike bituminous coal, or many of the smokeless options, it's a bit of a pig to get going initially. I'd suggest two firelighters, a 'log cabin' of kindling and then a layer of small bits of anthracite on top - then add more as it gets going. It's easier to overwhelm it at the beginning, as anthracite really needs the fire to be hot in order to catch. Once it's going though it's fantastic - burns very hot indeed. Good luck getting hold of some though, the last Welsh mine has now closed and I think the other main supplier was Ukraine... Thanks Henro - that’s useful. It seems like there still some stock (even if the Welsh stuff) so might try it. Your mention of it being hard to light raises concerns - the smokeless coal I use is advertised as being east to light and I find that a bear. Stupid environmental laws. A bit of smoke never did me any harm.
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Post by henroben on Dec 6, 2022 13:44:19 GMT
I used to use anthracite when I had an open fire - and in fact have 6 bags in the garden for my stove as well! It's great! However... unlike bituminous coal, or many of the smokeless options, it's a bit of a pig to get going initially. I'd suggest two firelighters, a 'log cabin' of kindling and then a layer of small bits of anthracite on top - then add more as it gets going. It's easier to overwhelm it at the beginning, as anthracite really needs the fire to be hot in order to catch. Once it's going though it's fantastic - burns very hot indeed. Good luck getting hold of some though, the last Welsh mine has now closed and I think the other main supplier was Ukraine... Thanks Henro - that’s useful. It seems like there still some stock (even if the Welsh stuff) so might try it. Your mention of it being hard to light raises concerns - the smokeless coal I use is advertised as being east to light and I find that a bear. Stupid environmental laws. A bit of smoke never did me any harm. I guess it depends on what you consider hard to light really. I've lit bituminous coal fires in the past with just newspaper and coal - it's a pain, but you can do it if needs must, as bituminous coal doesn't need to get that hot before it ignites. Anthracite however wants to be nice and hot before igniting, so lots of kindling and firelighters, and make sure to start with you're using small bits of coal (as they heat up quicker). On very cold days i'd often use 3 fire lighters, just to make sure - the old fashioned white paraffin ones as they burn longer and hotter than any of the 'eco' ones you see around these days. But once those small chunks of anthracite are alight, you just keep adding more and more and before you know it you've got a roaring fire. But there certainly have been times where I've smothered the fire with too much coal too soon and had to start again - they are more temperamental to start with. But the trade off is that once established they burn long and hot. Buy a bag and give it a go, what have you got to lose? Worst case scenario - you give up trying to light an anthracite fire and use what you normally do, then just chuck on the anthracite once it's going.
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dogbot
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Post by dogbot on Dec 6, 2022 17:06:46 GMT
Blow torch. 👍🏻
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Post by quadfather on Dec 6, 2022 17:10:55 GMT
Beginning to wonder about you
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dogbot
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Post by dogbot on Dec 6, 2022 17:20:46 GMT
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Post by technoish on Dec 6, 2022 20:56:57 GMT
That looks sweet as! The other option is to put the telly on the wall opposite the window but then the shutters will need to be shut virtually all the time as it's an OLED. minimatt, thanks - I guess I'll just discuss options with the installer. It felt pretty warm today putting my hand a meter or so above the stove on the mantel piece. Btw.
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Post by Danno on Dec 7, 2022 11:07:48 GMT
Fakk it's cold
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benno
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Post by benno on Dec 13, 2022 16:36:36 GMT
Just wanted to post a quick PSA in here, as I recently solved an annoying and persistent problem with my log burner that others may have.
I moved into a place a year ago which has a log burner attached to an external flue. I really enjoyed using the thing, but the biggest issue was always filling the room with smoke when lighting it, as the heavy cold air in the flue puts downward pressure on the airflow. Only after 1-2 minutes does enough heat manage to accumulate to get the air/smoke flowing in the right direction and not directly into my room.
I tried a few things over the last year: - lighting a couple of bits of newspaper first (as recommended by the previous owner) to preheat flue - didn't generate much heat and still lead to smoke coming into the room - preheating the flue with a blowtorch - no dice - build the fire "upside down" so it lights from the top. This is good practice anyway, and I still do it, but doesn't fix the problem - open the door to the burner 30 mins before lighting to let the cold air fall into the room and equalise the temperature a bit (this is a faff, and only has a chance of working if the weather is mild)
I finally found a solution, which in hindsight was obvious and I feel stupid for not identifying it sooner. It takes about 20 seconds, doesn't create any mess, results in zero smoke, and is 100% effective/reliable.
Simply blow a hot hairdryer up the flue for 20 seconds.
As you were.
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Post by technoish on Dec 13, 2022 16:49:55 GMT
Nice! Where was the smoke coming out - the bottom intakes?
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Vortex
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Harvey Weinstein's Tattered Penis
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Post by Vortex on Dec 13, 2022 17:02:45 GMT
Where was the smoke coming out - the bottom intakes? Paging Innunedobot!
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benno
New Member
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Post by benno on Dec 13, 2022 19:01:18 GMT
Nice! Where was the smoke coming out - the bottom intakes? If I closed the door, yes. But it always happens at the start of the burn, when the flue is cold, and the door is already open. So the smoke from the small beginnings of the fire would just seep into the house instead of being sucked up the flue. It was quite frustrating!
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Post by darkling on Jan 9, 2023 15:20:41 GMT
Question to all stove owners... Does your stove make any kind of air-related noise when in use, whether it be a rumble or rushing sound?
Part of the reason I got a new stove installed recently was because my old stove made a loud rushing noise, and I wanted to rule out the stove as the problem.
My new stove is quieter, but the rushing noise is still audible, even when completely shut down. There's also a "buffeting" effect to the noise, as if there's a pressure imbalance constantly trying to resolve itself.
I have 2 friends who say their stoves make no noise, and it doesn't seem to be a common issue reported online.
The last week or so, I've also been having a constant issue with logs initially burning fine, as usual, but then failing to burn through completely, and ending up in a smouldering state, with patches of black rather than white all over. This is despite the stove being red hot and with the secondary air half open. It's also been a struggle to quickly get the stove up to temp.
My logs seem dry, but it's possible I could be going through a batch of firewood that hasn't been kiln dried correctly.
It's also been quite windy recently, so my conclusion is I must have hugely excessive flue draw (I live in a fairly tall Victorian terrace) which may also be contributing to poor burning conditions, if heat is immediately being pulled straight up the flue, instead of being allowed to heat the stove.
Does your stove make a noise, or have you ever experienced any of the symptoms I described?
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Post by technoish on Jan 9, 2023 15:44:58 GMT
I feel like excessive draw would make it burn better as you'd get more oxygen coming in.
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Post by technoish on Jan 9, 2023 15:46:02 GMT
I feel like excessive draw would make it burn better as you'd get more oxygen coming in. Although internet says this: Whistling Whistling is a result of the air needed for combustion entering the stove through restricted airways and across sharp or angular edges. It is usually caused by high flue draughts above 20 pa (pascals). With a flue draw above 30 pa the whistling (if it occurs) can be quite loud, this can be resolved with the installation of a flue dampener or flue stabiliser. Whistling is also more common on stoves with tertiary air inlets. Increased flue draught (above 20 pa) can also reduce the overall efficiency of the stove by around 3-4%, and result in a more rapid consumption of fuel together with a decrease in the heat output to the room.
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Post by henroben on Jan 9, 2023 16:00:33 GMT
Question to all stove owners... Does your stove make any kind of air-related noise when in use, whether it be a rumble or rushing sound? Part of the reason I got a new stove installed recently was because my old stove made a loud rushing noise, and I wanted to rule out the stove as the problem. My new stove is quieter, but the rushing noise is still audible, even when completely shut down. There's also a "buffeting" effect to the noise, as if there's a pressure imbalance constantly trying to resolve itself. I have 2 friends who say their stoves make no noise, and it doesn't seem to be a common issue reported online. The last week or so, I've also been having a constant issue with logs initially burning fine, as usual, but then failing to burn through completely, and ending up in a smouldering state, with patches of black rather than white all over. This is despite the stove being red hot and with the secondary air half open. It's also been a struggle to quickly get the stove up to temp. My logs seem dry, but it's possible I could be going through a batch of firewood that hasn't been kiln dried correctly. It's also been quite windy recently, so my conclusion is I must have hugely excessive flue draw (I live in a fairly tall Victorian terrace) which may also be contributing to poor burning conditions, if heat is immediately being pulled straight up the flue, instead of being allowed to heat the stove. Does your stove make a noise, or have you ever experienced any of the symptoms I described? I'd say that you're closing your stove down far too much if they're not burning through and just smouldering and turning black - what you're basically doing is creating an inefficient charcoal kiln by restricting the oxygen getting to the fire. While you can close these things right down, it will make the wood smoulder and not burn properly - this is kind of ok if you're just banking the fire while you're asleep, but you shouldn't really be doing it to try and make your wood last longer or anything - you'll be creating lots of smoke and more creosote for your chimney. How long is it taking to get the stove up to temperature? Do you mean the stove temperature - which takes about an hour in my experience, or the flu temperature, which should take 5-10 mins usually? That's for a cast iron stove btw, I think steel ones get up to temp much faster... There will always be some degree of noise with a stove, simply because no stove is air tight and any fire will be drawing air in from where ever. With mine I get a very low volume kind of rumble, noticeable if I listen out for it I guess, but certainly quieter than an open fire would be. They will never be silent, your friends might have a noisier home / be less sensitive to the noise than you if they're saying theirs are silent?
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Post by darkling on Jan 9, 2023 16:06:03 GMT
I feel like excessive draw would make it burn better as you'd get more oxygen coming in. Although internet says this: Whistling Whistling is a result of the air needed for combustion entering the stove through restricted airways and across sharp or angular edges. It is usually caused by high flue draughts above 20 pa (pascals). With a flue draw above 30 pa the whistling (if it occurs) can be quite loud, this can be resolved with the installation of a flue dampener or flue stabiliser. Whistling is also more common on stoves with tertiary air inlets. Increased flue draught (above 20 pa) can also reduce the overall efficiency of the stove by around 3-4%, and result in a more rapid consumption of fuel together with a decrease in the heat output to the room. Yes this is what I was suggesting. It's counterintuitive, but excessive flue draw can cause less heat in the room (and more in the flue, I presume).
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Post by darkling on Jan 9, 2023 16:20:17 GMT
Question to all stove owners... Does your stove make any kind of air-related noise when in use, whether it be a rumble or rushing sound? Part of the reason I got a new stove installed recently was because my old stove made a loud rushing noise, and I wanted to rule out the stove as the problem. My new stove is quieter, but the rushing noise is still audible, even when completely shut down. There's also a "buffeting" effect to the noise, as if there's a pressure imbalance constantly trying to resolve itself. I have 2 friends who say their stoves make no noise, and it doesn't seem to be a common issue reported online. The last week or so, I've also been having a constant issue with logs initially burning fine, as usual, but then failing to burn through completely, and ending up in a smouldering state, with patches of black rather than white all over. This is despite the stove being red hot and with the secondary air half open. It's also been a struggle to quickly get the stove up to temp. My logs seem dry, but it's possible I could be going through a batch of firewood that hasn't been kiln dried correctly. It's also been quite windy recently, so my conclusion is I must have hugely excessive flue draw (I live in a fairly tall Victorian terrace) which may also be contributing to poor burning conditions, if heat is immediately being pulled straight up the flue, instead of being allowed to heat the stove. Does your stove make a noise, or have you ever experienced any of the symptoms I described? I'd say that you're closing your stove down far too much if they're not burning through and just smouldering and turning black - what you're basically doing is creating an inefficient charcoal kiln by restricting the oxygen getting to the fire. While you can close these things right down, it will make the wood smoulder and not burn properly - this is kind of ok if you're just banking the fire while you're asleep, but you shouldn't really be doing it to try and make your wood last longer or anything - you'll be creating lots of smoke and more creosote for your chimney. How long is it taking to get the stove up to temperature? Do you mean the stove temperature - which takes about an hour in my experience, or the flu temperature, which should take 5-10 mins usually? That's for a cast iron stove btw, I think steel ones get up to temp much faster... There will always be some degree of noise with a stove, simply because no stove is air tight and any fire will be drawing air in from where ever. With mine I get a very low volume kind of rumble, noticeable if I listen out for it I guess, but certainly quieter than an open fire would be. They will never be silent, your friends might have a noisier home / be less sensitive to the noise than you if they're saying theirs are silent? Yes, I suspected most stoves must make some sort of noise if they're drawing air through a small gap. On shutting the stove down too early... It's an interesting point. Up until a week ago, I'd shut it down a fair bit after just an hour, just to keep it quiet more than anything, and it ticked over beautifully, burned through logs no issue. Nice big flames. Perfect. It's only the last week where I've started to run into these issues. Yes, if I opened the stove up it's would certainly burn through the logs well enough, but the logs would only last 30 mins or so. I need to shut it down almost fully to get an hour out of each log, I think due to excessive flue draw. It's like a blast furnace otherwise. What's perplexing me is why my stove isn't behaving like it was only a week ago, which is why I suspect it's either the wind or my logs are a little damp in the middle. I'd say the stove itself is taking about an hour to get up to temp. It's steel with a cast iron door. It was previous only taking 30 mins to get red hot. I don't have a thermometer though. I just judge the temp using my hand next to the glass. I really should get one.
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Post by henroben on Jan 9, 2023 16:48:58 GMT
Yes, I suspected most stoves must make some sort of noise if they're drawing air through a small gap. On shutting the stove down too early... It's an interesting point. Up until a week ago, I'd shut it down a fair bit after just an hour, just to keep it quiet more than anything, and it ticked over beautifully, burned through logs no issue. Nice big flames. Perfect. It's only the last week where I've started to run into these issues. Yes, if I opened the stove up it's would certainly burn through the logs well enough, but the logs would only last 30 mins or so. I need to shut it down almost fully to get an hour out of each log, I think due to excessive flue draw. It's like a blast furnace otherwise. What's perplexing me is why my stove isn't behaving like it was only a week ago, which is why I suspect it's either the wind or my logs are a little damp in the middle. I'd say the stove itself is taking about an hour to get up to temp. It's steel with a cast iron door. It was previous only taking 30 mins to get red hot. I don't have a thermometer though. I just judge the temp using my hand next to the glass. I really should get one. Interesting, yeah, maybe the wind direction has changed and you're getting an increased draw through the chimney, but the fact your logs are not burning through strongly suggests the opposite - that the fire isn't getting enough oxygen. In my experience, the amount I can shut the air intakes down varies based on weather conditions, but also wood type - some woods burn very sulkily without enough air, while others burn away merrily at the same setting. And the amount I change the controls can be by tiny amounts - little bit to the left, sulky fire, tiny adjustment to the right, lovely big slow flames... If your logs are damp then the fire will output less heat - as some of the existing heat goes into drying out the logs before they'll burn - I think it's unlikely they're damp through the middle though, takes a long time for damp to soak into the middle of a log! But they could well be damp on the outside that'll take some time to dry out before they catch.
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Post by Dougs on Jan 9, 2023 17:06:10 GMT
Used to drive me mad when logs burned differently. Always assumed it was either they hadn't been dried/seasoned long enough or was just a different wood which needed hotter temps or whatever.
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Post by darkling on Jan 9, 2023 17:16:14 GMT
Yeah unfortunately my wood is a complete mix of hardwood this year. I'm not actually sure of the wood type, possibly ash or beech. None of it seems dense enough to be oak though, which is a pain to burn.
My usual supplier didn't get any stock this year, but they can normally provide bulk bags of pure birch, which is perfect.
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dogbot
Full Member
Posts: 8,738
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Post by dogbot on Jan 9, 2023 17:23:18 GMT
I've got a variety of wood from different sources and I regularly have to adjust the (top) air vent to burn different types. Bigger logs, harder woods all need more air or they just charcoal and lower the overall temperature and reduce the heat output. Plus, low burning (just like overheating) isn't good for the life of the stove or the chimney.
No idea about the whistling. Our stove makes all sorts of noises. Chimneys do, too, depending on the outside weather, temperature etc. If you think there's something genuinely wrong, you need an expert to look at it (sweep etc).
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Post by technoish on Jan 9, 2023 17:26:45 GMT
Different woods burn differently (flame and length of burn), but I never change my air intake settings. It's always max during lighting (I must say my flue temps take a lot longer than 5-10 minutes to get to "green" on the thermometer attached to the flue), and then I bring it down to the middle, about 66% (which is the same as the max allowed when it is properly set up for a smoke controlled area ). It depends on log size but if it isn't a big log then 30-40 minutes doesn't sound crazy.
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Post by henroben on Jan 9, 2023 17:44:49 GMT
Different woods burn differently (flame and length of burn), but I never change my air intake settings. It's always max during lighting (I must say my flue temps take a lot longer than 5-10 minutes to get to "green" on the thermometer attached to the flue), and then I bring it down to the middle, about 66% (which is the same as the max allowed when it is properly set up for a smoke controlled area ). It depends on log size but if it isn't a big log then 30-40 minutes doesn't sound crazy. Mine takes about 5 mins to hit the beginning of the red (or green, depending on your thermometer) zone, which is when the fan tends to start, after about 10-20 mins it's usually approaching the middle of that correct burn zone. But I guess it depends on the size of your flue and how you start your fire. I like to buy the kiln dried logs purely for starting the fire - they're like huge firelighters themselves and use them as the base for the top down method. I'm not convinced it's any better overall, but it does definitely get the flue heated up much quicker!
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Post by quadfather on Jan 9, 2023 17:46:10 GMT
My burner makes all sorts of noises too. At the moment, it's not lit and I can hear the wind. Later on when it's going and I open the doors for a bit ill hear it creaking and ticking as the doors cool down a bit. Then probably the old noise here and there. I just ignore it. I don't change my air intakes either. I've got them about bang on so I don't fuck with them I am somewhat more of a laxidasical person though, I admit
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richardiox
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Semi proficient
Posts: 1,653
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Post by richardiox on Jan 9, 2023 20:49:26 GMT
Yeah unfortunately my wood is a complete mix of hardwood this year. I'm not actually sure of the wood type, possibly ash or beech. None of it seems dense enough to be oak though, which is a pain to burn. My usual supplier didn't get any stock this year, but they can normally provide bulk bags of pure birch, which is perfect. Are you sure you don't need your chimney sweeping. I had similar thing to you last year and after a week or two more of fires there was zero draw, chimney sweep round, £50, Bosh and back to normal.
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Post by darkling on Jan 9, 2023 23:40:22 GMT
Yeah unfortunately my wood is a complete mix of hardwood this year. I'm not actually sure of the wood type, possibly ash or beech. None of it seems dense enough to be oak though, which is a pain to burn. My usual supplier didn't get any stock this year, but they can normally provide bulk bags of pure birch, which is perfect. Are you sure you don't need your chimney sweeping. I had similar thing to you last year and after a week or two more of fires there was zero draw, chimney sweep round, £50, Bosh and back to normal. Just before Xmas I had a new stove pipe fitted, a new register plate, and my liner swept, so my chimney is definitely in perfect working order. I think my issue is almost certainly excessive draw. Air is audibly rushing at all times, and you can see the fire being sucked upwards in time with wind gusts. With the stove opened up, the fire is never allowed to settle, and I genuinely think a lot of heat is going up the chimney, rather than into the stove. Had a bit more success this evening anyway, and got the stove nice and hot and burning nicely, despite a fair bit of wind noise initially. After lighting the stove and burning it down into a good bed of coals, I put a single log on (start small) and left the secondary air control almost fully open. However, the log ended up smouldering after 30 mins and the stove wasn't particularly hot. So I lobbed a log and a half on to give it plenty of fuel, let it get going, then shut the air control about 3/4 of the way. Believe it or not, shutting it down massively increased the heat output... I think because the flames were allowed to better establish, and the hot air remained in the stove longer. The log and a half burned for nearly 2 hours at a good heat. So yeah, definitely excess draw methinks, in this windy weather.
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Post by quadfather on Jan 10, 2023 12:36:50 GMT
Sounds like you need to hit that sweet spot with the air controls. Hopefully, once you get it spot on, you can just tinker with it during really windy weather.
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nexus6
Junior Member
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Post by nexus6 on Jan 10, 2023 12:51:54 GMT
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