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Post by Dougs on May 23, 2022 14:18:11 GMT
Definitely a network issue then. I'd be on to the ISP asap.
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H-alphaFox
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Post by H-alphaFox on May 23, 2022 14:37:52 GMT
Just annoying as times I can fix it for an hour or overnight so it makes me think it is on our end.
Honestly want to bin this ISP anyway it's become so often now.
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Post by Fake_Blood on May 23, 2022 16:19:29 GMT
If your isp’s router has an external power supply, you could try finding an adapter with the same plug and voltage, or a universal one. Those things are plugged in and delivering power 24/7 for years, and they don’t break suddenly, they just start dropping the voltage.
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H-alphaFox
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Post by H-alphaFox on May 26, 2022 13:04:15 GMT
Well the isp think it's my router, which I only paid 170 euro for recently because I wanted to take the router out of the equation as it was happening with my old one too. Funnily enough though as we were on the phone troubleshooting my connection mystically came back.
I really doubt it is my routers but happy to have the connection back.
For now.
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Post by Vandelay on Jun 1, 2022 21:30:39 GMT
Assume this is the general trouble shooting PC woes thread, so will just post here rather than create a new one.
A while ago I had this problem, tried it again a few weeks ago with success, but it has just started happening again.
I have an AVR setup for my TV and have my computer nearby, so connected up to it via HDMI. Ideally, I want to be able to use the speakers connected to the AVR, whilst still using my monitor rather than the TV. As you seem to have to have a video signal sent along with the sound, I set my computer to duplicate image mode and that allows it to work.
However, it is as if the connection is randomly lost ever so often, with the monitor cutting out for a second like it is changing modes. It will do this frequently at times, every few seconds, making it basically unusable.
I had given up a while ago and just resorted to headphones, but tried it again a few weeks ago and it seemed sorted. Then it just started doing it again a few minutes a go. Have no clue what has changed to suddenly make it screw up again.
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minimatt
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Post by minimatt on Jun 1, 2022 21:54:21 GMT
I guess start at layer 1 and find/borrow a spare HDMI cable first?
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Post by BeetrootBertie on Jun 1, 2022 22:13:18 GMT
Does the AVR have any other audio inputs available rather than using hdmi? I was wondering if you could just route the audio from the pc via another means like a 3.5mm audio cable or convert to an aux/RCA type cable if it has a suitable input?
If the monitor you're using already has a headphone jack, possibly output from that to the AVR or bypass the hdmi in some manner.
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zagibu
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Post by zagibu on Jun 2, 2022 7:06:40 GMT
And that was what cracked it - it was the fucking CMOS battery on the motherboard. If you have one of those multi-power plugs with an on-off switch, and you leave your computer plugged in there with the switch set to off overnight, the battery can degrade pretty quickly. It doesn't happen on all of the multi-power plugs, only on the better ones with a real power disconnect, that even kills creeping currents. |
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Post by Vandelay on Jun 2, 2022 9:15:26 GMT
Does the AVR have any other audio inputs available rather than using hdmi? I was wondering if you could just route the audio from the pc via another means like a 3.5mm audio cable or convert to an aux/RCA type cable if it has a suitable input? If the monitor you're using already has a headphone jack, possibly output from that to the AVR or bypass the hdmi in some manner. 3.5mm wouldn't allow for surround though. HDMI is certainly the most convenient and would be my preferred, although RCA might be okay (don't think I have any cables around to try). That would just output an audio signal from the computer to the AVR, so shouldn't cause any confusion. The only way I've been able to get it to work as intended permanently is to have the TV on as well, but that obviously isn't really practical. I assume it must be Windows getting confused rather than a hardware problem. |
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Post by BeetrootBertie on Jun 2, 2022 9:29:59 GMT
Do you currently have 2 hdmi cables coming from the pc then, or is the monitor display port? I was wondering if an HDMI splitter from a single output might do the job so Windows doesn't have to do the screen replication thing.
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Post by Vandelay on Jun 2, 2022 10:56:05 GMT
It's display port to the monitor. Ideally it would let me just send an audio signal down the HDMI to the AVR, but HDMI only lets you send audio with video. That means I have to have it set to either duplicate or extend in Windows.
As I say, it seemed to be working fine for the post few weeks, but randomly stopped working last night. No idea what changed.
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Blue_Mike
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Post by Blue_Mike on Jun 4, 2022 19:25:09 GMT
My Surface Go 2 has just developed a blue screen of death issue after a driver update made it restart and go into an endless fucking loop of "System_Thread_Exception_Not_Handled" and automatic repair services failing to automatically repair. Couldn't boot into Safe Mode, couldn't do a restoration from a system image, after exhausting every other option I've had no choice but to do a complete factory reset. Nothing valuable lost, majority of stuff on it was on the SD card, but it's a fucking pain in the arse.
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Post by Fake_Blood on Jun 4, 2022 20:59:29 GMT
It's display port to the monitor. Ideally it would let me just send an audio signal down the HDMI to the AVR, but HDMI only lets you send audio with video. That means I have to have it set to either duplicate or extend in Windows. As I say, it seemed to be working fine for the post few weeks, but randomly stopped working last night. No idea what changed. Could be the order in which you power the pc, avr and monitor on. Maybe your avr needs to be on before you boot the pc. Hdmi handshaking is weird. |
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Blue_Mike
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Post by Blue_Mike on Jun 4, 2022 21:05:04 GMT
My Surface Go 2 has just developed a blue screen of death issue after a driver update made it restart and go into an endless fucking loop of "System_Thread_Exception_Not_Handled" and automatic repair services failing to automatically repair. Couldn't boot into Safe Mode, couldn't do a restoration from a system image, after exhausting every other option I've had no choice but to do a complete factory reset. Nothing valuable lost, majority of stuff on it was on the SD card, but it's a fucking pain in the arse. For fucks sake. 60% of the way through the Windows reinstallation, the same fucking blue screen message about unhandled thread exception popped up, except now when it says "We'll restart for you" that's all it goddamn does, in an endless loop. No options screen at all, just that blue error screen, then it restarts, blue error screen, restarts, ad nauseum. |
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Post by Fake_Blood on Jun 4, 2022 21:08:19 GMT
Try reseating the ram, and preferably start with one stick in slot A1. Sounds like a hardware thing.
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Chopsen
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Post by Chopsen on Jun 4, 2022 21:22:13 GMT
On a surface go? Yeah, good luck with that...  When you say reinstall from an image, do you mean an internal one on the units or did you download one from the interweb? If the former, do the latter. If the latter unit is fucked. |
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Blue_Mike
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Post by Blue_Mike on Jun 4, 2022 21:38:19 GMT
Try reseating the ram, and preferably start with one stick in slot A1. Sounds like a hardware thing. Uh, yeah, no? On a surface go? Yeah, good luck with that...  When you say reinstall from an image, do you mean an internal one on the units or did you download one from the interweb? If the former, do the latter. If the latter unit is fucked. It told me there was no system image found to restore from, despite a recent system restore point being created. After having gone through every other option available and no joy with any of them, the only other one was "Reset this machine, wipe everything" and when it asked whether to do it by downloading fresh copy of Windows or reinstalling from existing files on the machine, it claimed to be unable to do a fresh download. Which left me with only the option to try reinstalling Windows from the existing system files, I got that running, and there was a lengthy period where it ran through a "Preparing" black screen with a percentage, which when it got to 100% went to the blue Windows setup screen, which got to 60% before suddenly crashing out to the original error screen.
Now I don't even have the ability to get to any of the options. Just error screen, restart, error screen, restart.
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Chopsen
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Post by Chopsen on Jun 4, 2022 21:44:41 GMT
Do you have access to another PC? You can download a new bootable image from microsoft which you can put on a usb and then boot from on the surface, and then reinstall from that.
Probably the image you're trying to restore from is corrupt or similar.
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Chopsen
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Post by Chopsen on Jun 4, 2022 21:48:09 GMT
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JonFE
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Post by JonFE on Jun 4, 2022 21:48:19 GMT
Could it be that your SSD disk is corrupt/fucked? Can you try downloading a fresh image to an external disk and use that to reinstall?
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Blue_Mike
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Post by Blue_Mike on Jun 4, 2022 22:08:08 GMT
Gonna create a recovery drive and try the linked steps. Having to buy a USB-C type flash drive now, because all my current flash drives are full of films and TV I haven't watched yet. Went on Overclockers to buy one and ordered some fan header splitters at the same time so I can do some unrelated re-jigging of things in my main machine.
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Post by Vandelay on Jun 5, 2022 15:31:21 GMT
It's display port to the monitor. Ideally it would let me just send an audio signal down the HDMI to the AVR, but HDMI only lets you send audio with video. That means I have to have it set to either duplicate or extend in Windows. As I say, it seemed to be working fine for the post few weeks, but randomly stopped working last night. No idea what changed. Could be the order in which you power the pc, avr and monitor on. Maybe your avr needs to be on before you boot the pc. Hdmi handshaking is weird. Thanks for this. Could be the solution, in a roundabout way. Tried having the AVR on before booting, which didn't make a difference, but Windows doesn't detect it at all until I switch to duplicate screen mode (or extend). Turned on duplicate, turned the computer off and then on again. So far, seems to be okay, but will see how it goes for a few uses. Edit: Nope. Had about 30 mins with no issues and then it started doing it again. Edit 2: turns out it probably isn't a Windows issue. Just tried switching over to my barely used installation of Linux and had exactly the same issues (actually worse, as in Linux it messes up the resolution). |
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Post by 😎 on Jun 6, 2022 14:54:50 GMT
Here’s a fun one. Got a new midrange PC the other day (i7 11700, RTX 3070, not amazing, but a step up my old tower), did the usual “try everything to see how well it works” thing, everything is performing as expected, except Cyberpunk 2077. No matter what settings I try, low with RT off and DLSS on ultra performance, everything on max with RT, it will not go above around 40fps. I cross compared it with my old PC (i5 9700, 1660ti) that can do medium quality 1080p ultrawide at around 100fps. Checked every damn setting, every resolution, every frame rate cap option, vsync on and off, pedestrian density as low as it can go. Same thing. Lurks around 40fps (and not a dead on cap - it twitches up to mid 40s or so sporadically so it’s not fully capped). Online benchmarks show it should be going well above that, especially with RT off and DLSS on, but nope.
I don’t even want to play the game, I was just using it for benchmarks. But it’s annoying me. Everything else I’ve tried has been as expected for the spec.
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Post by dominalien on Jun 6, 2022 17:20:18 GMT
Did you set a 40 fps cap out of habit?
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Post by theguy on Jun 6, 2022 19:00:44 GMT
I'm no expert but sometimes v-sync can be on in the Nvidia control panel, might be worth toggling it off there too. Not sure if windowed mode might make a difference either.
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Post by Fake_Blood on Jun 6, 2022 21:06:29 GMT
Did you set a 40 fps cap out of habit? 40 is such a weird cap that it just might be a steam deck setting that got transferred with a cloud save. |
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Post by 😎 on Jun 7, 2022 14:45:06 GMT
I considered the Deck thing but I’ve not played CP on my Deck, it’s fine on the other PC and it’s not a perfect lock, so dunno what’s up there.
I think I’ve sort of solved it anyway, it’s now a nice steady 60+fps, but I’ve no idea why or how.
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Post by dominalien on Jun 7, 2022 14:51:21 GMT
Now I want to get CP on PC to see what it runs like on the Deck. :-(
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Blue_Mike
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Post by Blue_Mike on Jun 11, 2022 16:33:22 GMT
I wish I'd started creating the recovery image for the Surface last night, it's taking so fucking long to extract from the .zip to the USB.
---
Well fuck my rusty sheriffs' badge, it actually worked. It lives!
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Post by pierrepressure on Jun 17, 2022 20:45:51 GMT
I know this is a proper newbie question but can't for the life of me figure it out and a search online has not brought much success.
My eldest got a gaming laptop for Christmas and he's been using it for some, let's say, unsavoury behaviour.
His mum but blocks on the internet but he's found a way around it by using an program called bluestacks which bypasses the bt security.
His mum has asked me to put a password on any programs being downloaded but not sure how I go about this as he's the only account on the laptop. He's using Windows 11 if that helps anyone answer??
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